Xerolithia White, Peza 2008, Crete, Greece (£7.99 Oddbins) Nice mix of richness and crispness, rounded and fleshy, with some pineapple flavours, but also a slightly pithy, piney edge and an almost volcanic note on the finish. B(+)
Alois Lageder ‘Vogelmaier’ Moscato Giallo 2006, Alto Adige, Italy (£7.60 in the Bibendum sale – normally £12.93) Grapey and spicy, but has lost its youthful zip and is starting to show an oily/bitter edge. OK, but would have been far, far better two years ago. In this state, C
Peter Lehmann Layers White 2009, Adelaide, Australia (£10.50 Enotria, SWIG) Young, slight rose petal aroma, quite rich lychee, rhubarb and peach flavours, but can’t make up its mind whether it want to be young and crisp or fleshy and mellow. B(-)
Château Brown Pessac Léognan Blanc 2008, Bordeaux, France (~£30 Soho Wine Supply) Young, and still quite oaky, but the smoky character is in balance with the zesty but refined flavours of tinned pears, peaches, guava and passionfruit, and there’s an almost briny tang to the finish. Fresh and very classy, needs 3+ years, but should be worth the wait. S(+)
Ferngrove “Symbols” Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2009, Frankland River, Western Australia (£8.99-£9.50 Seckford Agencies) Crisp, grassy, herby, with the Semillon adds punchy pungent weight to the citrussy treble notes of Sauvignon. Nice seafood style. B+
Leaping Lizard Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Western Australia (£7.99-£8.50 Seckford Agencies)
Not as immediate and forward as the above, richer but not better with some honey and nut amid the citrus and tropical fruit, lacks the Ferngrove’s élan. B-
Château de Sours Bordeaux Blanc 2008, France (£10.17 Private Cellar) Clasic white Bordeaux tang of tinned pear juice, quite mellow with ripe apple and fennel flavours, gentle, some warm spice, and power beyond the fragrance – has another couple of years ahead of it. S-
Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon 2005, Hunter Valley, Australia (£25 www.everywine.co.uk) Firm, high cheek-boned youngster, rich yet bracing with tangy greengage, lemon and lime flavours, with toast & honey just coming through, and a hint of custard too. Opens up over 24 hours to show a fuller, fleshier style, but still some way from its peak. Lovely wine. S+
Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon 2002, Hunter Valley, Australia (£20-23 Noel Young, SWIG, Majestic) The extra maturity gives this more richness and creamy weight, although it’s still a pup, with SO2 (sulphur dioxide) evident on the nose. Get beyond it and you find a wealth of citrus, green apple and honey plus a hint of buttered toast, just 10% alcohol, but comes across as being higher (looks much younger than a bottle I tried in Oct 2009 – production is all now with screwcap). S(+)
Domaine du Tariquet Sauvignon Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne 2008, South West France (~£5-6) Clean, fresh, herbaceous wine, touches of tomato and gooseberry, starts of refreshing but the finish is slightly lifeless. B-
Casillero del Diablo Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Central Valley, Chile (£6.99 Sainsbury’s, Asda – both are promoting it at £5 over the coming weeks; also Majestic) Taut, lively, zesty style has a slightly catty edge, but there’s also a stony/flinty/minerally side, plus lovely citrus and fennel flavours. Rich but dry and refreshing, very classy and great value, especially on promotion at £5. S-
Villa Maria Wairau River Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Marlborough, New Zealand (£11.99, Asda, Majestic, www.nzhouseofwine.co.uk) Heaps of flavour, like gooseberry pie in a glass, also plenty of citrus, quite rich, fat and rounded, maybe a touch of sweetness, not subtle but packed with honest flesh and fruit. B+
PS Have been assured that this is bone-dry
Château Ducla Experience XIV Bordeaux Blanc, 2006, France (£12.99 Averys) Sweet toasty oak, hints of gunflint, then a rich, almost Burgundian palate with waxy edges, a touch of butter, and smoky tinned pear flavour. Rich and mouthfilling, this is classy wine. S
Did anyone else used to have a pumice stone that was disguised as a mouse in their bathroom? Can’t remember the last time I was up close and dirty with one, but the smell of them lingers in my brain and I’ve just found it again in the Dourthe No1 Bordeaux Sauvignon 2008 (£6.99-£8.99 Waitrose, Booths, Wine Rack). There’s also that classic catty edge, plus a wealth of elderflower and lemon flavour, and with that pumice character adding a touch of welcome severity to the finish. Tasty stuff from one of Bordeaux’s top négociants, how does it compare with a Bordeaux Blanc from a smaller estate? Yesterday, I was on the red from Château Grand Village; today it’s the 2007 white (£8.50 armit), which has some Sauvignon in the blend, but is mostly Sémillon. And while there’s some herby zing from Sauvignon in there somewhere, it’s the more rotund, honeyed, waxy Semillon that has the upper hand here, and which will mellow into custardy middle age over the next couple of years. Which is the better wine? They’re both very nice, and quite different. Drink the Dourthe by itself or with simple shellfish dishes, and save the Grand Village for heartier fishy fare.
