Poggiotondo Toscana Bianco 2009, Italy (£8.99 Liberty Wines, Noel Young, Reserve) One of those wines that creeps up on you, initially fresh and floral with a citrussy bite, but then the taut, pine-like edge of Vermentino comes through, along with an almost volcanic minerality. B+
Raimat Albariño Viña 24 2009, Costers del Segre, Spain (£8.99 Oddbins) Crisp and tangy to start with then opens up to show a richer, peachy core, with hints of ripe red apples. Good but a touch simple. B
Vesevo Beneventano Falanghina 2009, Campania, Italy (£10.99 Liberty Wines, Highbury Vintners, Noel Young, Reserve) Is this bottle as fresh as it should be? There’s quite weighty flavours of waxy walnut skin and peaches, along with touches of marzipan, but I remember previous vintages being fresher and more minerally. ???
Church Mouse Falanghina 2008, Puglia, Italy (£6.98 Asda) Quite rich and fleshy, with grapefruit and lime jelly flavours, but it lacks fragrance and poise, and ends up being pleasant but simple. C+
Orovela Cuvée Chandrebi Mtsvane/Rkatsiteli 2007, Georgia (£12.99 Georgian Wine Society) Has an intriguing, almost late-harvest character, with aromas of burnt sugar, honey and honeysuckle, fleshy, peachy fruit with hints of almonds and marmalade, and grippy acidity on the finish. Unusual, and some may say it’s too old, but this was one from this quintet that I polished off the evening after the tasting, with garlic-y roast chicken. S-
There is a video down below somewhere but first, let’s talk brett. Brettanomyces to give it its full name is a strain of yeast that has been around for centuries, but which began to appear on the wine radar around 20 years ago, and has really sprung to prominence in the last decade.
We’ll get on to why in a moment, but first, how do you spot its influence in a wine? Tell-tale signs of badly-affected wines are aromas of farmyards and horse-blankets, along with a metallic, medicinal edge like surgical bandages. And there’s never quite as much fresh fruit as you’d like – the wines smell quite developed, even when they’re young, and often finish with raspingly dry tannins.
Sounds horrible? Well, in large doses it can be, but in small amounts… Think of it in musical terms. One minor deviation from the score, and only the musician notices. Three or four, and there a light murmurs from a few members of the audience. Twenty bum notes, and widespread coughing ensues. So it is with brett. There are some who think that a small amount can add complexity to a wine, much as a touch of volatility, oxidation or reduction can, in the right places.
In my experience, the level of brett in a bottle of wine remains much the same as you chug your way through its contents. As some wines take a time to open up, this can mean that a wine that starts off in rather pongy fashion actually becomes more pleasurable the longer it’s been opened. But certainly not always, as was the case with the Chivite wine in the video (honestly, there is one, just keep scrolling down, I’ll shut up soon).
As for the reason we’ve become more aware of it in recent times, much of it can be traced back to winemaking hygiene. As producers around the world have adopted more sanitary working practices, some facets of certain wines that were once thought to be terroir-derived complexities have actually been revealed to be flaws, with brett being among them. An ex-Oddbins buyer recently told me that when he was looking for wines in the mid-1990s, he’d say to the suppliers that they didn’t want them with that stinky Rhône-like character: ‘We hadn’t heard the word “brett”, but we could spot it in a wine a mile off.’
Cleaner cellars should mean less brett, right? Well certainly the hike in hygiene meant that those wineries that hadn’t cleaned up their act began to stand out. But it wasn’t only ancient producers that were making bretty wines – often it was the swankiest of newcomers, looking to produce very ripe, low acid wine with the minimal of sulphur additions which was aged on the lees in 100% (and sometimes 200%) new, highly toasted oak, and then bottled (perhaps with a touch of residual sugar) with neither fining nor filtration. The trouble is, such conditions spell party-time for brett. The barrels in particular are brett heaven – the yeast has been found nearly 1cm deep in oak staves. And the result is wines that were intended to last 20 years or more, but which at less than half that age are dried out and charmless.
With the passing of the fashion for big oak and big alcohol, does this mean there’ll be fewer bretty wines in the future? Perhaps, but yeasts have been known to play dirty…
Nearly at the video, but what do you think of brett in wines? Can you spot it, does it put you off, have you ever sent a bretty wine back in a restaurant, and if so, how did it go down with the sommelier/waiter? Do leave a comment. OK, video time…
Ramos Pinto Duas Quintas Douro 2007, Portugal (£9.99 Whole Foods Market, Roberson, Partridges, Philglas & Swiggot, Planet of the Grapes, Wines of the World, The Vineyard (Dorking), The Secret Cellar (Tunbridge Wells), Wright Wine Company, Stainton Wines, D Byrne, Lockett Bros, L’Art du Vin, Villeneuve Wines, Henderson Wines, Peckham & Rye) Appealing young red, with bright sweet (but not too sweet) blackcurrant jam, cherry and spice flavours and a firm but juicy finish. B+
Macià Batle Binnisalem Crianza 2006, Mallorca, Spain (£12.25 Bowes Wine) Starts well with wild, warm, meaty aromas, and promises of sweet figgy fruit, but when you come to taste it, it’s a bit angular and dead-grape/raisinny, and flattened by brett. B-
Viña Pomal Centenario Rioja Reserva 2005, Spain (£11.99 Majestic) Classic style, with aromas of vanilla and flavours of raspberry, strawberry and orange peel kept in check by a thread of acidity, tasty now, but good for another couple of years at least. B+
Viña Mara Rioja Reserva 2004, Spain (~£10 might still be in some Tesco stores) A more mature and mellow style than the Pomal, with plush plummy red berry fruit that grows in the glass and a vanilla-tinged spicy warmth to the finish. This was still looking great a couple of days after first opening. S-
Chivite Gran Feudo Navarra Reserva 2004, Spain (£7.99 Waitrose) The feral meatiness hints at the presence of brett, and while there is some reasonable blackcurrant and raspberry flavour, the dry finish and the dead grape don’t really give much pleasure. C+
Chivite Gran Feudo Garnacha Rosado 2009, Navarra, Spain (£7.99 Waitrose) Sappy young rosé packed with blackcurrant, apple & blackberry pie flavours, refreshing and juicy, with a dry, succulent finish. B(+)
Palo Alto Shiraz Reserva Rosé2009, Maule, Chile (£7.99 Asda, Booths) Gentle style, maybe lacking some freshness, pleasant red berry fruit, a touch off-dry. C+
Delheim Pinotage Rosé 2009/10, Stellenbosch, South Africa (£7.95 Museum Wines, Mill Hill Wines, Palmers Wine Store, Rackhams, Michael Jobling Wines, George Hill, Naked Grape)
The 2009 is fresh and fruity with an almost Sauvignon-like grassy edge, apples & blackberries – like summer pudding in a glass – with a touch of Pinotage banana. B(+)
The 2010 smells fuller and fleshier than the 2009, with plumper plum and berry flesh – if the ’09 is picnic pink, this is the one for barbecues. B+
More from the batches of wine that arrived from Morrisons & The Wine Society – this time it’s the reds (the whites are here).
The Society’s Claret NV (Sichel), Bordeaux, France (£5.95/£5.42 The Wine Society) Leafy, sappy, young and refreshing unoaked style, uncomplicated tender and fruity, does just what it should. B-
Sichel Lussac St Emilion 2007, Bordeaux, France (£11.99/£6 Morrisons) Reasonably fleshy but a touch over-extracted and with too much toasty oak for the level of fruit. OK at £6, not at £11.99. C+
The Society’s Rioja Crianza 2006 (Bodegas Palacio), Spain (£7.50 The Wine Society) Quite delicate young wine, with typical sappy strawberry flavours tinged with vanilla, but also more exotic hints of ginger and orange peel. B+
Lagunilla Rioja Reserva 2004 (aka M ‘The Best’ Rioja), Spain (£9.11/£6 Morrisons) A richer, fuller style, still with lots of red berry fruit, plus hints of chocolate and vanilla. Honest and welcoming but just a tad short. B+
The Society’s Côtes-du-Rhône NV (Ogier), France (£6.75 The Wine Society) Young, fresh, almost chillable style, with raspberry flavours and a touch of bubble gum (feels like a touch of carbonic maceration), a little gawky at the moment, but decent peppery finish. B-
Ramparts Côtes du Rhône Villages 2007, France (£9.99/£6 Morrisons) Sweeter and fleshier, with rounder plum and blackberry flavours, some chocolate edges (maybe from a touch of oak?) and a rich earthy finish. B(+)
CVNE Rioja Crianza 2006, Spain (£7.99 Majestic, Booths, www.everywine.co.uk, Wimbledon Wine Cellar) Bouncy pippy berry and bramble – raspberries, loganberries – with a spicy edge, a touch of vanilla rather than a huge dollop, fresh, sappy, tangy finish. Nice wine, tastes of modern Rioja, but also a good refreshing summer red. B+
François Lurton Barco Negro Douro Tinto 2007, Portugal (~£10) Heady, rich warm dark fruit, blackcurrants and blackberry, with earthy overtones, yet despite its brawn, remains fresh, and has a gentle floral/spicy edge. S-
Segura Viudas Brut Reserva NV (£8.99 Oddbins) Earthy lemon aromas, quite pleasant toasty notes, but then the finish is just too sweet and a little flabby. OK, but lacks crispness. C+
Raventós i Blanc Gran Reserva de la Finca 2005 (£21.99 Hamilton Yorke, Handford, Martinez, Davy’s Wine Shop, The Vineyard, SWIG) A slightly clay-like minerality here, again lemon (and citrus peel), with some of that bready complexity, and there’s also a hint of cocoa. Rich but dry, and while there’s some yeasty maturity, it still feels young. S(+)
Raventós i Blanc de Nit Brut Reserva 2007 (£17.99 Hamilton Yorke, Handford, Martinez, Davy’s Wine Shop, The Vineyard, SWIG) The fresh, earthy edge and biscuity bite of the l’Hereu, but infused with red berries, lovely balanced style, with plenty of fruit but also elegance and zest. Walks over most Champagnes at twice the price. S
Bisol ‘Cartizze’ Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore 2008, Veneto, Italy (£22.99 Bibendum) Starts off lush and peachy, but then the minerally restraint kicks, adding a drier, more serious, clay-like edge and keeping you coming back for more. S-
Cono Sur Brut NV, Bío-Bío, Chile (£9.99 Morrisons, Oddbins, Tesco.com) Toasty sweet’n’sour Riesling character comes through strongly on the nose, also in the mouth. It tends to take over what without it would have been a quite elegant wine. Shame. C+
Codorníu Reina Maria Cristina Cava Brut Reserva 2007, Catalonia, Spain (£18.99 Majestic) Relaxed, confident style, showing some maturity, but still with a core of earthy citrus fruit, and a touch of herbs, a touch of sweetness, but nicely balanced. S-
Petaluma Croser 2006, Piccadilly Valley, South Australia (£16.06 Bibendum – £11.08 in the sale from Feb 2nd-15th) Showing some creamy, even cheesy lees edges, along with some of the strained chocolatey richness of a touch of oxidation. But these are all in balance with the rest of the wine, and the bready/biscuity citrus and pineapple get their chance to shine. Rich but dry, classy style. S
Champagne Moutard Cuvée des 6 Cépages 2004, France (£37.50 – Sommelier Wine Co, Markinch Wine Gallery, Winos, Den Boer Wines, Kevin O’Rourke Wines, Divine Wines, Vineyards, Cherchez le Vin, Ashbourne Wines, K D Brands Ltd, John Gordons Ltd, Beverley Bollons, The Larder, The Naked Grape, Bacchus)
(the 6 Cépages are Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir & Pinot Meunier)
Not much on the nose, or in the mouth. Has a creamy, herby edge, but not a great deal of flavour coming through at the moment. Nor with further time – am I missing the point here? B
Have to say that I’ve never had a low alcohol wine (or beer) that I’ve wanted to rush out and recommend – if I can’t have propoer wine, I’d much rather have a glass of water or fruit juice or elderflower cordial. Here’s a video looking at Miguel Torres’ attempt to get the style right, cost £5.99 a bottle from Soho Wine Supply. Did he succeed…?
(an experiment with a different video camera that didn’t work as well as I’d have liked – normal service wil be resumed etc)
Casillero del Diablo Pinot Grigio 2009, Limarí, Chile (£7.49 Majestic – £5.99 until end of Jan 2010) Young, fresh and appealing, tangy but not much beyond youthful citrussy crispness, CFDN, although it does have a bit of weight. C+
Simonnet Febvre St Bris Sauvignon 2007, Burgundy, France (£8.49-£8.99 Majestic, Waitrose) The creamy, nutty edge of Burgundy combines with the grassy citrus pungency of Sauvignon Blanc to give an unusual but attractive, fish-friendly white. B+
Tahbilk Marsanne 2007, Central Victoria, Australia (£8.75 Sainsbury’s, The Wine Society, Philglas & Swiggot) Tangy young wine combining pithy greengage, fig and citrus flavours with a richer honey and honeysuckle edge. Lovely clean fresh finish, lots of potential for future devlopment. S-
Circumstance Viognier 2008, Stellenbosch, South Africa (£9.99 Boutinot) Quite pronounced toasty oak, some peachy Viognier pungency behind, but also a rather odd smoky/charred edge, as if there’d been a bush fire nearby. A curate’s egg of a wine. ???
Bodegas Naia ‘Naiades’ 2006, Rueda, Spain (£19.99 Boutinot) Smoky, soft, nutty, white Bordeaux meets white Burgundy, guava, pinepapple, tinned pear, fresh but with a creamy undertone, very subtle, beautifully balanced, very classy wine. G-
———————
Something on the other two Naia wines I mention in the video. K-Naia 2008 (£8.99 Noel Young, Woodwinters, Reserve, Corks of Cotham) is wonderfully zingy, zippy wine, brimming with confident rhubarb and guava flavours reined in by and citrus acidity. Silver. Naia 2008 (£10.99 Woodwinters, Bacchanalia) is partially oak-aged and spends longer on the lees. For me, it doesn’t work as well – the wine is weightier, but while it has some of the same pungent flavours, it’s lost its vibrancy. Bronze(+)
Domaine du Tariquet Les Premières Grives Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne 2008, South West France (£9.40 slurp.co.uk) Off-dry, fresh and zippy white, packed with fruit – peach, pear, apple – with a herby edge and a clean fresh finish. Lovely summer day wine, good with fruit salad. B+
Domaine du Tariquet Les Dernières Grives Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne 2008, South West France (~£13 MW2 Wines, Wine Service, Caviste) A dead ringer for a good Jurançon that this manages to combine opulent weight with spine-tingling acidity, then adds in hints of honey, apple, orange and fennel. Lovely wine, delicious now, but will keep. S
Concha y Toro Reserva Privada Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2006, Maule Valley, Chile (£5.99 per half Oddbins, Majestic, Booths, Harrods) The Sauvignon gives this gooseberry and citrus flavours, but while the lime marmalade-y edge is pleasant, it lacks pithy bite. B-
Torres Floralis Moscatel Oro NV, Spain (£7.99 per 50 cl Waitrose, Grapevine, Eagles Wines, Romulus Wine, Partridges) Redolent of barley sugar, like many sweet Muscats, with a nice grapey tang as well, but once again, lack the tang of acidity. B
Campbells Rutherglen Muscat, Australia (£9.50 per half Oddbins, Waitrose, Berry Bros & Rudd) This is better, ripe and rich, with treacle toffee flavours to the fore, and citrus and rose petal in the background. Spirit add comforting warmth rather than oppressive heat. Grown up wine, like liquid rum & raisin ice cream. S
