CVNE Rioja Crianza 2006, Spain (£7.99 Majestic, Booths, www.everywine.co.uk, Wimbledon Wine Cellar) Bouncy pippy berry and bramble – raspberries, loganberries – with a spicy edge, a touch of vanilla rather than a huge dollop, fresh, sappy, tangy finish. Nice wine, tastes of modern Rioja, but also a good refreshing summer red. B+
François Lurton Barco Negro Douro Tinto 2007, Portugal (~£10) Heady, rich warm dark fruit, blackcurrants and blackberry, with earthy overtones, yet despite its brawn, remains fresh, and has a gentle floral/spicy edge. S-
Onda Nova Syrah 2007, Algarve (£9.99 www.mollybrownswinelist.co.uk) A full-flavoured, fleshy youngster that speaks of a warm climate with its plummy dark chocolate flavours, but which never goes overripe and remains fresh. Nice meaty finish and potential to develop further. B+
Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima Tinto 2008, VR Tejo (£8.40 Clark Foyster) Smooth, easy drinking red – too smooth? There’s soft strawberry and plum fruit, but the flavours are slightly muddied by a confected vanilla edge. B-
Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima Tinto Reserva 2008, VR Tejo (£10.90 Clark Foyster) More of that vanilla, but here it’s in balance with the black cherry, blackcurrant and redcurrant flavours, and there’s an intriguing mineral twist to the finish. Good but not great. B(+)
A couple of wines from a well-known (in the UK at least) singer’s estate in the Algarve plus a rather unusual sweet wine from the Ribatejo – or Tejo, as we should now be calling it.
Onda Nova Verdelho 2008, Algarve (£9.99 www.mollybrownswinelist.co.uk ) Clean, fresh, tight peach, citrus peel and gritty pearskin character with a touch of brine, ripe but still refreshing, wears its 14% alcohol well. B(+)
Onda Nova Syrah Rosé 2008, Algarve (£9.99 www.mollybrownswinelist.co.uk ) Bouncy rosé, packed with strawberry (fresh and tinned) flavours, fleshy and ripe but still dry, with an honest lively finish. B
Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima Late Harvest 2008, Ribatejo (N/A in UK – Clark Foyster are Lagoalva’s importers) A touch of volatility (think nail varnish), then oodles of fruit – peach, pear, apricot, grapefruit, elderflower, orange marmalade – but there’s also a less ripe, almost smoky edge that seems slightly at odds with the lusher sweeter side of the wine. Overall though, pretty tasty. B+ (see notes on the 1995 here)
Just had an eager press release – text is below, more (in German) on the website here – about how the Austrians have brought in a new category of wine, Weinviertel DAC Reserve. The announcement that a region that hardly anyone has heard of now has both normal and reserve levels of DAC (equivalent to France’s AOC) is obviously ‘a big deal’ for those in Vienna, but I wonder just how relevant it is to those outside the country.
Since the so-called anti-freeze shenanigans of the 1980s, Austria has been almost OCD in its concern that nothing shall tarnish the image of its wines. The result has been a surge in quality, and a growing band of enthusiasts around the world. If the idea of DAC is to impress outsiders, we’re actually sufficiently impressed already without any more regulations.
I for one won’t be rushing to recommend my readers to seek out the term DAC on wine bottles. In a recent issue of Decanter, Giles MacDonogh compared Grüner Veltliner’s performance in Austria with that of Pinot Noir in Burgundy. At the heart of the piece were two assertions: firstly that Grüner Veltliner has an innate ability to transmit the characteristics of the various Austrian terroirs. But secondly, as he said in conclusion, ‘…soil alone is not enough: the best wines still come from the best winemakers.’
In other words, the most important thing to remember for those in search of the top wines of Austria is not a list of DACs, but the names of the finest producers.
Anyway, the press release…
With the Weinviertel DAC Reserve, the Weinviertel joins the rest of Austria’s two-tiered DACs.
In 2003, the Weinviertel became the first Austrian wine-growing area to market typical wines of origin under the specific name of the region. This gave the Weinviertel DAC its pioneering role for wines with a clear identity and a typical taste profile. So far, six other regions – Mittelburgenland, Traisental, Kremstal, Kamptal, Leithaberg and Eisenberg – have joined this appellation system as well. And now with the 2009 vintage, the available two-tiered DAC system, which includes the Reserve level, has been introduced also in the Weinviertel. With this, the taste profile should reflect even more typicity. And the number of wines that come on the market under the Weinviertel designation should increase.
Weinviertel DAC Reserve – additional taste profiling
Since the introduction of the Weinviertel DAC with the 2002 vintage, six other regions joined the DAC appellation system (Mittelburgenland, Traisental, Kremstal, Kamptal, Leithaberg and Eisenberg). And when those six regions joined, they included and brought to the market the Reserve category as well (except the Leithaberg, which carries the Reserve category only). A Reserve wine is the top wine: it is the winery’s highest quality; its centerpiece. That is why the criteria for a region-typical top wine are strictly applied – the high quality of the wines is guaranteed.
After several years of discussions, the Regional Wine Committee Weinviertel decided at the beginning of last September to introduce a Weinviertel DAC Reserve with the 2009 vintage. “With this, the Weinviertel wants to provide the top wines of the region with the successful Weinviertel designation of origin, giving them even higher importance and value,” explains Roman Pfaffl, head of the Wine Committee Weinviertel. “These wines symbolize the power and strength of the Weinviertel.”
The concept was presented to the National Committee for assessment and, after being affirmed, was delivered to Austria’s Federal Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, Environment and Water Management, where it was signed into law by Federal Minister Niki Berlakovich in February.
Criteria for the Weinviertel DAC Reserve
As with the Weinviertel DAC wine, the Weinviertel DAC Reserve – level wine must demonstrate a clear, region-typical taste profile – it must be a peppery Grüner Veltliner from the Weinviertel. But it also must have other distinguishing features: dry; a dense structure; a long finish and a robust style. Subtle Botrytis and wood tones are acceptable.
The minimum alcohol content – at least 13 % vol. – must be printed on the label. Filing for a government approval numbercan be done no earlier than March 15th of the year following the harvest.
The purchasing of additional grapes for the production of Weinviertel DAC Reserve wines is permitted only within the region. “Trauben für Weinviertel DAC Reserve“ (grapes for Weinviertel DAC Reserve) must be stated on the invoice, and the natural must weight in KMW (Klosterneuburger Mostwaage) must be declared as well.
Regarding the application for a government approval number four out of six tasters must agree that the wine, from a sensory perspective, can be marketed under the name Weinviertel DAC Reserve.
Before the first-time application for a government approval number, written notification must be given to the Regional Wine Committee Weinviertel.
Bottling is to take place in the production enterprise (winery) and in the Weinviertel. If bottling is to take place outside of the region, then it must be approved first by the Regional Wine Committee.
Wine with the Weinviertel DAC Reserve designation can be sold only when the bottle features a specific capsule. This is a uniform capsule for the Weinviertel DAC and Weinviertel DAC Reserve wines, and can be obtained only with the approval of the Wine Committee Weinviertel. Moreover, a per-capsule fee must be paid to, and utilised by, the Wine Committee Weinviertel.
Beginning with the 2012 vintage, each winery producing a Weinviertel DAC Reserve must be certified according to a regional quality management system developed by the Weinviertel Regional Wine Committee and implemented and monitored by an external auditor.
Château Jouclary Cabardès Cuvée Tradition 2006 (£6.99) Quite lively, spicy blackcurrant flavours tinged with a touch of iron, but then let down by something ever so slightly stale and cardboardy (still there a couple of days later), also a slightly metallic hint to the finish. Still good, and improves with time open, but flawed – don’t think it’s a bottle fault, but willing to be proved wrong. B-
Domaine de Cazaban Cabardès 2007 (£15.99) Fresh vibrant and virile wines, vibrant, the Merlot giving plummy roundness with the Syrah giving more plums plus orange peel and blackcurrants, some reduction giving that sage-infused sausage meat character, very promising spicy youngster. S
Château Jouclary Cabardès Cuvée Guilhaume 2004 (£11.25) Riper fruit than the Cuvée Tradition, but also comes across as fresher and more confident, with tannin and acidity providing backbone for the relaxed plummy blackcurrant flavours. Showing a touch of age, but still with bounce and passion, and again an edge of iron-like minerality to the finish. S-
Domaine de Cazaban Cabardès Demoiselle Claire 2007 (£10.25) A touch of rum’n’raisin, but also vibrant white pepper-y black fruit, again that iron-like minerality with the edge of reduction giving that meaty sage and onion, character. Entertaining and fresh – very tasty. S(-)
All these are from The Mixed Case
Samos Co-op Vin Doux 2007 (£4.99 per half Cooden Cellars, Theatre of Wine, Adnams) Light lemon/orange scented, grapey delight, with the classic edge of barley sugar, rich but gentle, with a sprightly finish, and just the right amount of spirity bite. B+
Samos Co-op Anthemis 2003 (£11.50 The Wine Society – Waitrose also has halves in presentation boxes @ £9.99) Some of the mahogany-edged raisinny character of tawny port, nutty and figgy, also some treacle toffee, but still with a lively citrus edge to the finish. S(-)
Hatzidakis Vinsanto 2000, Santorini (£16.75 Cooden Cellars) Smells fresher than the Anthemis, but the flavour is just a bit too sweet and rich, nice nutty raisin edge, but jusy a bit glloopy, would benefit from a touch of fortification in this style. B
Moraitis Sillogi White 2007, Paros (£9.95 Laytons) Similar citrus crispness, but richer, lacks the zip and minerally zest, just turning a touch bitter – should have been drunk up by now. C
Hatzidakis Nykteri Reserve 2007, Santorini (£13.99-19.80 Cooden Cellars, Theatre of Wine) Peach, melon, pineapple chunk, some smoky/resinny oak, very rich and mouthfilling, but lacks the balance of the basic version. Comes across as slightly bloated. B
Moraitis Sillogi Red 2005, Paros (£10.95 Laytons) Earthy cherry, cooked fruit, ripe but with quite a big structure, slightly bitter cherry, some red berries, but finish is just a little coarse. B-
Undurraga TH Pinot Noir 2008, Leyda (£10.99 Eagles Wines, Dorje’s Wine Club) A good combination of decadent strawberries (both fresh and tinned) with a fresh, quite grippy structure of acidity and tannin. It’s ripe but never OTT, and there’s an earthy, vegetal note to the finish. S-
Undurraga TH Pinot Noir 2008, West Casablanca (£11.24 M&S Wines Direct) (different – cheaper – price on the web site from that I was given when I did the video…)
Not as vibrant as the Leyda wine, but a touch more seductive, with gentle fleshy forest fruits, notes of coffee and truffles, and an alluring, ever-so-slightly meaty finish. S(-)
Cono Sur 20 Barrels Pinot Noir 2007, Casablanca (£21.99 Oddbins) Intriguing stuff, that starts of resembling a cross between Pinotage and Pomerol – the warm berries and hint of varnish of the former, the plush plummy polish of the latter, overlaid with classy oak. Then with time, the black cherry edge of proper Pinot comes through with aplomb. Still feels like its best is yet to come – the wine was still getting better when the last dregs were drunk on Day 3. S(+)
Casa Marin Lo Abarca Pinot Noir 2006, San Antonio (£21-25 Reserve, Byrne’s) Aaargh! Corked. Grrr…
Just tasted my way through a selection of Chilean Pinots for a piece I’m doing for Square Meal. Here’s the verdict on the first four…
Emiliana Reserva Pinot Noir 2008, Casablanca (£7.99 Amps, Noel Young) A wine that scores by not trying too hard to impress. Instead it concentrates on sporting joyful red fruit – red cherries, strawberries, raspberries – plus a touch of smoky oak, and then finishes with a fresh, sappy edge that cleans your mouth and leaves you wanting more. Not complex but vibrant and tasty. B(+)
Anakena Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009, Rapel Valley (£7.99 Noel Young) Paler than the Emiliana, but more interesting? Not really. It’s quite delicate, but there’s not enough charm to sustain this lighter style. OK cherries and red berries, but lacks the IT factor. C+
Anakena ONA Pinot Noir 2008, Casablanca (£9.99 Oddbins) Starts of in rich fruity fashion, but then turns simple, and while the red berry fruit is quite attractive, overall it’s a little too correct, with a slightly hard finish. B-
Tabalí Reserva Especial Pinot Noir 2008, Limarí (£9.99-10.99 Reserve, Byrnes, Amps, Noel Young) A step up here. The brawniest of these four, with deep dark fruit flavours, notes of coffee, kirsch and cherries (red and black) and a voluptuous finish with some smoky oak and silky tannins. Good now; better in a few months time. S-
The remaining trio from the clarets that had been hogging the wine rack…
Château Preuillac Médoc 2004 (£14 Soho Wine Supply) Nose is a combination of ripe, even overripe fruit with a smoky edge that tends towards the fishy (think smoked mackerel). There’s quite nice ripe blackcurrant, plum and berry, but then the dry finish speaks of too much new wood, and it doesn’t improve with time either. B-
Château de Lamarque Haut-Médoc 2004 (£17.99 Corney & Barrow) A less ambitious wine than the Preuillac, but all the better for it. It’s more relaxed and more mature, and the smokiness here seems to speak of terroir rather than over-zealous winemaking. Slightly ristic, but honest and tasty. S-
Château Brown Pessac-Léognan Rouge 2006 (£25 Soho Wine Supply) Classy fruit, classy oak, plummy, cedary intensity, plus a hint of woodsmoke, manages to be both tight and svelte, yet juicy at the same time woodsmoke, beautifully balanced with a silky, almost Burgundian finish, very moreish. S(+)
