My friend’s mum had several initials both before and after her name. She was very studious and serious, and never seemed to shave her legs (not sure if this was a statement or an oversight). Yet how did she spend her Saturday afternoons? Like many in the UK, watching Mick McManus beat 50 Shades of Black & Blue out of people such as Big Daddy, Giant Haystacks and Catweazle. Sometimes Mick won, often thanks to his deadly forearm jabs. Sometimes he lost – two falls, two submissions or a knockout was the deal. But he always appeared the following week to sneer again at the audiences who loved him and hated him in equal measure.
Alas, Mick hit the deck yesterday, never to rise again from the referee’s count. Also no more is the magazine in which Mick made his wine judging debut, What Wine? It would have been 30 this year. Initially edited by Robert Joseph and Charles Metcalfe, it soon morphed into Wine Magazine, and then into Wine International, and it’s former staff members include many renowned UK wine writers – Tim Atkin, Joanna Simon, Susy Atkins, Chris Losh, Margaret Rand, Jane Parkinson…and me.
So where does Mick come in? The easiest way is to reprint part of a piece I wrote back in 2003 for the 20th anniversary of the mag. It was an account of what had featured each year in the magazine – below is the entry for 1983 featuring Mick’s contribution…
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1983
Among the articles in the inaugural issue of What Wine?, as it then was, are ‘How British IS British Wine?’, and ‘A lighthearted look at some of the more surprising wine growing countries of the world.’ Among these is Australia – ‘The ships which bore botanists also carried bits of botany, often French and German vines. Many reds are in the Bordeaux style, but 19th century German immigrants mean the whites are often Riesling based.’ The entry for Argentina was briefer – ‘UK consumption was growing fast. Until last year.’
The heart of the magazine is a tasting of literally hundreds of wines for which an eminent panel of wine trade figures was joined by celebrities such as Rodney Bewes, Henry Cooper, Sue McGregor, Mick McManus [told you we'd get to him], Stirling Moss, Brian Rix, Ed Stewart and Fiona Richmond. Top scorers included Grants of St James Côtes de Provence (£2.79), 1982 Asda Liebfraumilch (£1.95), 1977 Tignanello (£4.20), Tio Pepe (£3.99), 1977 Château Musar (£4.25) and 1980 Brown Brothers Chardonnay (£5.65)
One of the more memorable tasting notes is ‘Unwashed pants’, relating to Dominic’s Rosenhof Tafelwein. And while few of Mick McManus’s comments make it into the magazine, his comment, ‘Suits my taste’ about Robert Mondavi 1980 Chardonnay does appear. However, the gremlins which dog the production of any magazine caused the ‘u’ in ‘suits’ to become an ‘h’…
The Society’s New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Marlborough (£8.95 The Wine Society)
Tangy citrus set alongside richer guava and passionfruit flesh, decent herby aromas, and a touch of stony character, but just a bit too rich for real class. B
Stoneburn Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Marlborough, New Zealand (£7.25 The Wine Society)
A touch of the citrus here, but also stewed (Bramley) apple giving sweet and sour tension – almost Mâcon-like Sauvignon! B+
Champagne Piper-Heidsieck Brut NV (£30.99 Waitrose)
Dainty, lively wine, with pineapple flavours and biscuity richness kept in check by taut apple and citrus acidity. Classy and elegant, very tasty. S(+)
Terra Nostra Nielluccio Corse Rouge 2011, Corsica, France (£7.25 The Wine Society)
The bruised cherry edge and slightly tart, appley acidity seem more Italian than French, good fresh earthy style, but needs some fat and tomato to fight against. B+
Poggio del Sasso Sangiovese di Toscana 2011, Italy (£6.95 The Wine Society)
It comes with a screwcap, but have to say this lacks freshness. Don’t mind the plumskin and cherry flavours, or the note of rosehip, but there’s an almond-like torpor that lets it down. 0
Vigneti Trebbio Toscana 2010, Italy (~£20 Vinum)
This blend of Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah combines flavours of both Tuscany and Bordeaux. The Tuscan bit is the spicy slightly baked cherry sourness of Sangiovese, while the Bordeaux bit is the leafy/herbal plum, blackcurrant and blackberry. The slightly dry tannins are also Bordeaux-esque, but they do have plush coating of fruit to balance. Good wine, chewy but still supple, although maybe that leafy, chocolatey Cabernet is just a bit too loud. S
Tagus Creek Chardonnay/Fernão Pires 2012, Tejo (£5.99 Tesco, Asda)
Simple, slight Alka Seltzer fizz, combining pithy lemon with a richer toffee and peach note, just slightly simple. C+
Tagus Creek Shiraz/Touriga Nacional Rosé 2011, Tejo (£5.99 Asda)
I don’t mind the rosehip syrup and berry flavours, but the boiled sweet/tinned fruit syrup character speaks of a wine that lacks freshness and bite. C(+)
Graham’s Crusted Port NV, bottled 2006 (£17.99-£20.00 Sainsbury’s, Morrison’s, Tesco)
Combines hearty, friendly berry, plum, damson and violet flavours with earthy tannins and fresh acidity. Good now, but all in place to develop further. S
Quinta do Tedo 2008 (£15.99 Whole Foods Market, Martinez Wines, The Wine Shop, Grassington)
Big rich damson and berry flesh, but this veers too much to the overripe and raisinny, and there’s a savoury dryness to the finish that speaks of brett. B(+)
(There’s currently information only about the Natureo White on the Torres website)
Torres Natureo Rosé Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Spain (£5.99 Asda, Waitrose)
It may not be incredibly wine-y, but it’s a pleasant enough drink, off-dry and juicy with flavours of rosehip syrup and tinned strawberries. C(+)
Torres Natureo Tinto Syrah 2011, Spain (£5.99 Asda)
More wine-like than the rosé but not as pleasant, this has a smoky aroma and slightly baked berry fruit. C(-)
And if you want to see what I thought of the white, here‘s something from a long time ago when I didn’t speak quite as quickly…
World Malbec Day? Malbec World Day? Whichever way round it is, this is the third year on which April 17th has seen celebrations for all things Malbec-y – more info here. Here’s me setting into eight examples, all from Argentina, unless specified.
Château de Chambert Cahors Malbec 2008, South West France (£16.99 Bennetts Fine Wines, Cooden Cellars, Harrogate Fine Wine Company, The Vine Shop, Leamington Wine Company, Shills of Station Street, Winearray, Pallant of Arundel, No2 Pound Street, Ake & Humphris, Carruthers & Kent, The Drinkmonger, Winedirect.co.uk)
Violet scented dark plum and loganberry set in a framework of chewy tannin and smoky oak, and with some earthy chocolate notes in there too. Mature but still has some rustic grip in the best sense of the word. S
Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Clasico 2012, Mendoza (£11.99 Whole Foods Market, Cooden Cellars, Tivoli Wines, The Jolly Vintner Too, Bentley’s Wine, Corks of Cotham, Worth Brothers Wines, Blacker Hall Farm Shop, The Fine Wine Company, WoodWinters, Giacopazzi, Winedirect.co.uk)
Joyous, youthful style, brimming with fresh crunchy blackcurrant, blackberry and violet flavours and a touch of toasty (but never too toasty) oak. S
Pablo y Walter Malbec 2012, Mendoza (£9.99 All About Wine, Vagabond Wines, Jolly Vintner, The Wine Warehouse, Bakewell, Winos, D Byrne & Co, Great Grog)
Another juicy youngster, plush and plummy, maybe just veering a little towards the blackberry jam-y, but still a decent glug. B(+)
Pulenta Estate La Flor Malbec 2012, Mendoza (~£11.50 Berry Bros & Rudd, The Wine Alley, Butlers Wine Cellar, Bottle Apostle, Formula Wine, The Good Wine Shop, The Quince Tree,
Upton upon Severn Wines, Uncorked, Woodwinters Wines & Whiskies, James Ward)
Another buoyant young wine, with bold plum and berry fruit and a fragrant earthy finish. Delicious style, and a toss-up as to whether I prefer the crisper the style of the Altos Las Hormigas or the more polished fleshier style of this. S
Bodega Renacer ‘Punto Final’ Malbec Clasico 2011, Mendoza (£10.99 Philglas & Swiggot, Highbury Vintners, North & South Wines, Askewine, The Colchester Wine Company, The Butlers Wine Cellar, The Vineyard, Cooden Cellars, Pallant of Arundel, Grape & Grind, Leamington Wine Company, Tivoli Wines, Nickolls & Perks, D Byrne & Co, The Flying Corkscrew, Reserve Wines, Wined Up Here, Conwy Fine Wines, Gwinology, Luvians, Peckhams, House of Menzies, The Fine Wine Company, Aitken Wines, Santangeli, TheWineReserve.co.uk)
Soft gentle dark fruit flavours pepped up by notes of vanilla and sandalwood. Good caught between stools – neither youthful and exuberant, nor old and profound. B(+)
Bodega Colomé Estate Malbec 2010, Salta (£16.99 Waitrose, Hedonism Wines, Planet of the Grapes, The Hampstead Butcher & Providore, Theatre of Wine, Noble Green Wines, The Wine Chambers, Dalling & Co, Noel Young Wines, DeFine Food & Wine, Reserve Wines, Chester Beer & Wine, Carruthers & Kent, Gwin Llyn Wines, Lockett Bros, The Fine Wine Company, Winedirect.co.uk)
Rich, rounded and earthy, with hearty, spice-tinged berry and plum flesh and a proud, fleshy finish. My only concerns are that the warmth of the region comes through in slightly jammy liquorice notes, while the slight skin-y character – damson skins, plum skins – speaks of grapes picked a little too late. S(-)
Valentin Bianchi ‘Famiglia Bianchi’ Organic Malbec 2010, Mendoza (£13.99 Whole Foods Market, The Secret Cellar, The Jolly Vintner Too, Hanging Ditch Wine Merchants, The Wine Chambers, TheWineReserve.co.uk)
Massive style weighing in at 15.5% alcohol. The hearty liquorice, plum, berry and damson flavours will appeal to many, but I miss fragrance and freshness. S-
Trapiche Viña Federico Villafañe Single Vineyard Malbec 2008. Mendoza (£24 Laithwaites)
Maturing gently, but still with some perfumed freshness to the dark berry and damson flavours, held together by gentle chocolatey tannins and earthy, iron-rich minerality. S(+)
Haven’t had time to do the stockist links – would have ended up posted after Malbec World Malbec Day had finished…
Domaine de la Mordorée Lirac Cuvée de la Reine des Bois Blanc 2010, Rhône, France (£20.50 Lea & Sandeman)
Exotic, musky style, with plush apricot and peach flesh and some earthy, spicy complexity. Weighty but never OTT. S(+)
My friend’s mum had several initials both before and after her name. She was very studious and serious, and never seemed to shave her legs (not sure if this was a statement or an oversight). Yet how did she spend her Saturday afternoons? Like many in the UK, watching Mick McManus beat 50 Shades of Black & Blue out of people such as Big Daddy, Giant Haystacks and Catweazle. Sometimes Mick won, often thanks to his deadly forearm jabs. Sometimes he lost – two falls, two submissions or a knockout was the deal. But he always appeared the following week to sneer again at the audiences who loved him and hated him in equal measure.
