Comelli Pignolo 2009, Friuli (N/A in the UK)
It seems like there’s reasonable plummy loganberry and mulberry fruit here, but it’s very hard to get to it under the overlay of tannic smoky oak. I gave this three days to see if the wood would soften, but it didn’t seem to… ???
Tesco Chianti Classico 2010 (£6.99 Tesco)
Warm, earthy, Wednesday-evening type of wine, slightly chewy with some freshness, and enough hearty cherry and plum fruit to pad it out. B(+)
Castellare Chianti Classico 2010 (£15.95 Bibendum)
Polished plummy plushness, modern style with blackberries and blackcurrant alongside the cherries, and touches of spice and vanilla to back it up. Purists might not like it, but it’s very tasty. S
Poggerino Chianti Classico 2009 (£15.50 Lea & Sandeman)
Light and charming, delicate and fragrant, with juicy cherry and red berry, an undercurrent of earthiness, and a fresh finish. High cheekboned style, with effortless allure. S(+)
Barone Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva 2009 (£16.99 selected Sainsbury’s)
Another from the modernist school, with the leafy blackcurrant and berry pointing to the inclusion of some Bordeaux grapes. But there’s still enough of the spicy cherry kernel, cola and herb to say that this is Chianti. S
Piccini ‘Orange Label’ Chianti 2010, Tuscany (£6.99 Sainsbury’s)
Fruity youngster that wouldn’t object to 20 minutes in the fridge before serving, with vibrant plum and cherry freshness, a touch of almond, some spice & herbs, and just the right amount of tannic bite to the finish. B(+)
Umberto Cesari Yemula Sangiovese/Merlot IGT Rubicone 2008, Emilia-Romagna (N/A in UK – RRP ~£22)
Peculiar wine, with a soft, smoky oak sheen and some soft berry fruit, but the main impression is of coffee and vanilla tinged with some volatility – reminds me of Tia Maria! C+
Umberto Cesari Liano Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon IGT Rubicone 2008, Emilia-Romagna (£21.99 Hallgarten Druitt)
Shares the same Tia Maria/vanilla/coffee style as the Yemula, but has a little more structure and more evident fruit – blackcurrant and cherry. B-
Umberto Cesari Sangiovese di Romagna Riserva 2008, Emilia-Romagna (£14.99 Hallgarten Druitt)
The savoury sour cherry kernel and blackcurrant edge of Sangiovese comes through here, but – again – let down by that clumsy volatile vanilla note. B
Umberto Cesari Tauleto IGT Rubicone 2004, Emilia-Romagna (£36.99 Hallgarten Druitt)
There’s a touch of the volatility that was in the Cesari 2008s, but here it’s in balance with the earthy mineral, cherry (flesh and skins), blackcurrant and damson fruit and the note of cola. Still on the chewy side, with just a hint of green tannin, but decent, ever-so-slightly rustic wine. S(-)