Champagne Piper-Heidsieck Brut NV (£30.99 Waitrose)
Dainty, lively wine, with pineapple flavours and biscuity richness kept in check by taut apple and citrus acidity. Classy and elegant, very tasty. S(+)
Terra Nostra Nielluccio Corse Rouge 2011, Corsica, France (£7.25 The Wine Society)
The bruised cherry edge and slightly tart, appley acidity seem more Italian than French, good fresh earthy style, but needs some fat and tomato to fight against. B+
Poggio del Sasso Sangiovese di Toscana 2011, Italy (£6.95 The Wine Society)
It comes with a screwcap, but have to say this lacks freshness. Don’t mind the plumskin and cherry flavours, or the note of rosehip, but there’s an almond-like torpor that lets it down. 0
Vigneti Trebbio Toscana 2010, Italy (~£20 Vinum)
This blend of Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah combines flavours of both Tuscany and Bordeaux. The Tuscan bit is the spicy slightly baked cherry sourness of Sangiovese, while the Bordeaux bit is the leafy/herbal plum, blackcurrant and blackberry. The slightly dry tannins are also Bordeaux-esque, but they do have plush coating of fruit to balance. Good wine, chewy but still supple, although maybe that leafy, chocolatey Cabernet is just a bit too loud. S
World Malbec Day? Malbec World Day? Whichever way round it is, this is the third year on which April 17th has seen celebrations for all things Malbec-y – more info here. Here’s me setting into eight examples, all from Argentina, unless specified.
Château de Chambert Cahors Malbec 2008, South West France (£16.99 Bennetts Fine Wines, Cooden Cellars, Harrogate Fine Wine Company, The Vine Shop, Leamington Wine Company, Shills of Station Street, Winearray, Pallant of Arundel, No2 Pound Street, Ake & Humphris, Carruthers & Kent, The Drinkmonger, Winedirect.co.uk)
Violet scented dark plum and loganberry set in a framework of chewy tannin and smoky oak, and with some earthy chocolate notes in there too. Mature but still has some rustic grip in the best sense of the word. S
Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Clasico 2012, Mendoza (£11.99 Whole Foods Market, Cooden Cellars, Tivoli Wines, The Jolly Vintner Too, Bentley’s Wine, Corks of Cotham, Worth Brothers Wines, Blacker Hall Farm Shop, The Fine Wine Company, WoodWinters, Giacopazzi, Winedirect.co.uk)
Joyous, youthful style, brimming with fresh crunchy blackcurrant, blackberry and violet flavours and a touch of toasty (but never too toasty) oak. S
Pablo y Walter Malbec 2012, Mendoza (£9.99 All About Wine, Vagabond Wines, Jolly Vintner, The Wine Warehouse, Bakewell, Winos, D Byrne & Co, Great Grog)
Another juicy youngster, plush and plummy, maybe just veering a little towards the blackberry jam-y, but still a decent glug. B(+)
Pulenta Estate La Flor Malbec 2012, Mendoza (~£11.50 Berry Bros & Rudd, The Wine Alley, Butlers Wine Cellar, Bottle Apostle, Formula Wine, The Good Wine Shop, The Quince Tree,
Upton upon Severn Wines, Uncorked, Woodwinters Wines & Whiskies, James Ward)
Another buoyant young wine, with bold plum and berry fruit and a fragrant earthy finish. Delicious style, and a toss-up as to whether I prefer the crisper the style of the Altos Las Hormigas or the more polished fleshier style of this. S
Bodega Renacer ‘Punto Final’ Malbec Clasico 2011, Mendoza (£10.99 Philglas & Swiggot, Highbury Vintners, North & South Wines, Askewine, The Colchester Wine Company, The Butlers Wine Cellar, The Vineyard, Cooden Cellars, Pallant of Arundel, Grape & Grind, Leamington Wine Company, Tivoli Wines, Nickolls & Perks, D Byrne & Co, The Flying Corkscrew, Reserve Wines, Wined Up Here, Conwy Fine Wines, Gwinology, Luvians, Peckhams, House of Menzies, The Fine Wine Company, Aitken Wines, Santangeli, TheWineReserve.co.uk)
Soft gentle dark fruit flavours pepped up by notes of vanilla and sandalwood. Good caught between stools – neither youthful and exuberant, nor old and profound. B(+)
Bodega Colomé Estate Malbec 2010, Salta (£16.99 Waitrose, Hedonism Wines, Planet of the Grapes, The Hampstead Butcher & Providore, Theatre of Wine, Noble Green Wines, The Wine Chambers, Dalling & Co, Noel Young Wines, DeFine Food & Wine, Reserve Wines, Chester Beer & Wine, Carruthers & Kent, Gwin Llyn Wines, Lockett Bros, The Fine Wine Company, Winedirect.co.uk)
Rich, rounded and earthy, with hearty, spice-tinged berry and plum flesh and a proud, fleshy finish. My only concerns are that the warmth of the region comes through in slightly jammy liquorice notes, while the slight skin-y character – damson skins, plum skins – speaks of grapes picked a little too late. S(-)
Valentin Bianchi ‘Famiglia Bianchi’ Organic Malbec 2010, Mendoza (£13.99 Whole Foods Market, The Secret Cellar, The Jolly Vintner Too, Hanging Ditch Wine Merchants, The Wine Chambers, TheWineReserve.co.uk)
Massive style weighing in at 15.5% alcohol. The hearty liquorice, plum, berry and damson flavours will appeal to many, but I miss fragrance and freshness. S-
Trapiche Viña Federico Villafañe Single Vineyard Malbec 2008. Mendoza (£24 Laithwaites)
Maturing gently, but still with some perfumed freshness to the dark berry and damson flavours, held together by gentle chocolatey tannins and earthy, iron-rich minerality. S(+)
Haven’t had time to do the stockist links – would have ended up posted after Malbec World Malbec Day had finished…
Domaine de la Mordorée Lirac Cuvée de la Reine des Bois Blanc 2010, Rhône, France (£20.50 Lea & Sandeman)
Exotic, musky style, with plush apricot and peach flesh and some earthy, spicy complexity. Weighty but never OTT. S(+)
Gimenez Riili Perpetuum Premium Torrontés 2011, Famatina Valley, La Rioja, Argentina (£10.95 Cupari Wines)
I like the gingery spice, the confected lemon jelly cube character is OK, I’m not so keen on the washing up liquid note, C
Mairena Torrontés 2011, Cafayate, Salta, Argentina (£10.95 Cupari Wines)
A weightier, more floral version of the above – better, but still not fine. C+
Pierre Gaillard Côtes du Rhône Les Gendrines 2010, France (£19.90 Berry Bros & Rudd)
Not afraid to flaunt its flesh, rich, exotic and confident style, combining opulent apricot, peach and nut kernel flavours with notes of honey, honeysuckle and jasmine. Bit of a bimbo, but a very attractive bimbo. S(+)
Domaine de Monteillet Condrieu Les Grandes Chaillees 2010, Rhône, France (£33.99 Field and Fawcett, Noel Young, The Sampler, Worth Brothers)
A more cerebral take on Viognier, does have the proud peachy nuttiness and spicy floral characters, but they’re underpinned by an earthy, stony minerality. Rich but restrained, profound but never forgetting to be delicious. G
The last in a series of three videos on red wines that – according to a range of wine merchants in the Yorkshire Dales – might not be averse to a spell in the fridge, and which could be served in Spring with lamb. The first and second are here. and here. This selection sees the Bordeaux grapes pressed into action…
Moulin de Gassac Merlot Pays d’Hérault 2011, Languedoc, France (£8.75 Terroir Languedoc)
Big, plump & plummy but still with a fresh herbal edge to the dark berry fruit, not afraid to show a little tannin but ends up refreshing and perky. S
Foncalieu Cabernet Sauvignon Réserve Saint Marc Pays d’Oc 2011, Languedoc, France (£6.30 Yorkshire Vintners)
Reasonable berry and blackcurrant flavours, but let down by a clumsy, dusty sawdust and vanilla oak edge which smothers the juiciness of the fruit. C(-)
Domaine Mas Barrau Cabernet Franc Pays du Gard 2011, Languedoc, France (£6.99 Booths)
Starts off in sulky, sulphury fashion. This dissipates after a while, allowing the tar and berry flesh to come through, but while there’s some of the Cab Franc fragrance, there’s also a baked character, and not enough freshness – it’s 15% alcohol… C(+)
Grant Burge Sparkling Shiraz Cabernet NV, Barossa Valley, Australia (£22.50 Nidderdale Fine Wines)
Fascinating style combining the mature soft leathery toffee characters of traditional Barossa reds with something softer and more perfumed, almost as if there was Moscato or Viognier in the blend. Maybe not as brawny as some sparkling Aussie reds, but as a result all the more gluggable. S-
The second in a series of three videos on red wines that – according to a range of wine merchants in the Yorkshire Dales – might not be averse to a spell in the fridge, and which could be served in Spring with lamb. The first and third videos are here and here. Today, it’s all Pinot Noir…
Domaine de Clovallon Pinot Noir Pays d’Oc 2011, Languedoc, France (£12.50 Terroir Languedoc)
Juicy but tender style, with spicy strawberry and raspberry flavours, gentle tannins and an unforced yumminess. S(-)
Pacifico Sur Pinot Noir Reserva 2010, Curicó, Chile (£9.60 Yorkshire Vintners)
Bold in flavour, but has the blackcurranty reduced character of Chile, and veers towards the overripe, with a slightly minty note to its stewed red fruit. C(+)
Windy Peak Pinot Noir by De Bortoli 2010, Victoria, Australia (£9.99 Booths)
Quite pale in colour, and not hugely concentrated, but offers generous ripe red berry and cherry flavours and a backbone of spicy tannin and acidity. S(-)
Dominic Hentall Saint Véran 2010, Burgundy, France (£15.99 Naked Wines)
Good mix of zesty citrus freshness with a softer, rounded cooked apple character, plus a slightly dough-like character reminiscent of undercooked cake mix. B
Domain Parigot Meursault ‘Les Vireuils Dessous’ 2010, Burgundy, France (£32.99 The Perfect Cellar)
Lean and lovely, with precise, poised apple and lemon flavours combining with a salty spent match note and some toasty oak, and a light floral edge as well. Delicious now, but the way it improves in the glass suggests a promising future. S+
Louis Latour Château de Blagny Meursault Blagny 1er Cru 2009, Burgundy, France (£29.99 Majestic)
It feels like there are 2 wines here. I like the taut minerally tang of the lively fresh part, but there’s also fatter, more clumsy, cheesy edge. Watched this over three days, and this stand-off never resolved itself. B+
Hahn Chardonnay 2011, Monterey, California (£12.99-£13.99 Spirited Wines, Wine Rack, Waitrose)
Friendly but simple style, spoiled by the sort of crude vanilla sweetness that went out of fashion in the mid-1990s. C
De Martino 347 Chardonnay 2010, Limarí, Chile (£9.99 Virgin Wines)
Pleasant enough, crisp and fresh, with a green tang to the slightly jelly-like citrus flavours, but it’s just too simple for real class. B-
Château Pey la Tour Réserve Bordeaux Supérieur 2008 (£9.75 Wine Society, Oddbins)
Rather solid wine, has some leafy freshness, but some of the flavours veer a little towards the baked and jammy, and I’d prefer a little more fragrance. B(-)
Harvey Nichols Margaux 2009 (£25 Harvey Nichols)
Rounded but fragrant style, with a slightly salty tang to its fresh blackcurrant, plum and pomegranate flavours, classy structure and a lively, confident finish. S(+)
Château Chantelune Margaux 2007 (£36.99 The Perfect Cellar)
Showing some leathery development, and there’s also an earthy, leafy undergrowth note on top of the gentle blackcurrant and cigar box flavours. Nicely balanced, rich and satisfying. S
Château Haut-Marbuzet* Saint Estèphe 1997 (£43.99 The Perfect Cellar)
The freshness of youth has given way to a rounded plummy middle age, with figgy notes and a spicy, savoury richness. Finish just a little dry for real class (there’s a touch of brett), but a decent drink. S-
