Saturday, May 25, 2013

Wine Tasting Video: Sauvignon Blanc from Chile & New Zealand

Posted by Simon on May 15, 2013

Miguel Torres Santa Digna Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Curicó, Chile (£7.99 Bablake Wines, Big Wines, Celtic Wines, Cotswold Vintners, Lewis and Cooper, Partridges, Portland Wines)
Crisp, restrained but confident style, with grassy lemon, grapefruit and rhubarb flavours set against pithy river pebble minerality. S-

The Society’s New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Marlborough (£8.95 The Wine Society)
Tangy citrus set alongside richer guava and passionfruit flesh, decent herby aromas, and a touch of stony character, but just a bit too rich for real class. B

Stoneburn Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Marlborough, New Zealand (£7.25 The Wine Society)
A touch of the citrus here, but also stewed (Bramley) apple giving sweet and sour tension – almost Mâcon-like Sauvignon! B+

 

Wine Tasting Video: Portuguese White, Rosé & Port

Posted by Simon on May 3, 2013

Adega de Monção Vinho Verde 2011 (£5.95 The Wine Society)
Young and briny, with an Alka Seltzer/sherbetty spritz, and tangy pear and ripe red apple flesh. B+

Quinta da Romaneira Douro White 2011 (£16.99 Corks Out, Wine Utopia, Winearray, The Fine Wine Company, Exel Wines, The Wine Reserve, Liberty Wines)
Like a Sauvignon with a little extra oomph, this has aromas and flavours of pears, ripe lemons, herbs, fennel and lemongrass, with herby minerality coming through with time. S(-)

Tagus Creek Chardonnay/Fernão Pires 2012, Tejo (£5.99 Tesco, Asda)
Simple, slight Alka Seltzer fizz, combining pithy lemon with a richer toffee and peach note, just slightly simple. C+

Tagus Creek Shiraz/Touriga Nacional Rosé 2011, Tejo (£5.99 Asda)
I don’t mind the rosehip syrup and berry flavours, but the boiled sweet/tinned fruit syrup character speaks of a wine that lacks freshness and bite. C(+)

Quinta do Tedo Rosé Port (£24.99 Harvey Nichols, Blanco & Gomez, Vineyard Wines)
Juicy strawberry, plum and violet backed up with more tannin and freshness than in other rosé ports I’ve come across. I like this. S-

Graham’s Crusted Port NV, bottled 2006 (£17.99-£20.00 Sainsbury’s, Morrison’s, Tesco)
Combines hearty, friendly berry, plum, damson and violet flavours with earthy tannins and fresh acidity. Good now, but all in place to develop further. S

Wine Tasting Video: Whites from the Rhone & Languedoc

Posted by Simon on April 12, 2013

Domaine La Croix Gratiot Picpoul de Pinet 2011, Languedoc, France (£8.99 Whole Foods Market, Vagabond Wines, Askewine, Taylor’s Fine Wine, Red & White, Scarlet Wines, Shaftesbury Wines, Bray Valley Wine, The Butlers Wine Cellar, Corks of Cotham, Peter Osborne Fine Wines, Connolly’s Wine, Kenilworth Wines, Nickolls & Perks, Worth Brothers Wines, Reserve Wines, The Wright Wine Company, Gwinology, Valvona & Crolla, Berits & Brown, Cornelius Beer & Wine, Henderson Wines, Winedirect.co.uk)
I like the light limey fruit, herby aromas and stony minerality, but it’s lost some of the freshness of youth, and would have been better last year (tasted the 2012 on 10/4/13 – much better). B(+)

Domaine La Croix Gratiot Roussanne Pays d’Hérault 2011, Languedoc, France (£9.99 Cooden Cellars, The Naked Grape, Riverford Farm Foods, Shaftesbury Wines, Grape & Grind, Noel Young Wines, Kenilworth Wines, Vinology, Worth Brothers Wines, York Beer & Wine Shop, Reserve Wines, Vinea, Carruthers & Kent, HarperWells.com)
Combines weighty peach, apricot and pearskin flesh with lively citrus freshness, a touch of walnut, clay-like mineral stoniness and a briny tang – nice wine. S-

Domaine de la Mordorée Lirac Cuvée de la Reine des Bois Blanc 2010, Rhône, France (£20.50 Lea & Sandeman)
Exotic, musky style, with plush apricot and peach flesh and some earthy, spicy complexity. Weighty but never OTT. S(+)

Chante Cigale Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc 2011 (£20.49 Connolly’s Wine Merchants, D Byrne & Co, Highbury Vintners, The Halifax Wine Company, The Vineyard)
Quite different from the Lirac but no less enjoyable, this is more perky and tense, with gentler pear and peach flavours reined in by spicy/herby minerality and citrus freshness – a rich but, dainty style. S(+)

Wine Tasting Video: Torrontes from Argentina meets Viognier from the Rhone & Languedoc

Posted by Simon on March 27, 2013

Gimenez Riili Perpetuum Premium Torrontés 2011, Famatina Valley, La Rioja, Argentina (£10.95 Cupari Wines)
I like the gingery spice, the confected lemon jelly cube character is OK, I’m not so keen on the washing up liquid note, C

Mairena Torrontés 2011, Cafayate, Salta, Argentina (£10.95 Cupari Wines)
A weightier, more floral version of the above – better, but still not fine. C+

Laroche Viognier de La Chevalière Pays d’Oc 2011, France (£9.99 Askewine, Trina’s Wines, Cooden Cellars, Kenilworth Wines, Vinology, Vinea, Conwy Fine Wines, Peckhams, The Fine Wine Company, Aitken Wines, The Cave)
Rounded and rich, but still retains some subtlety, with a floral edge to the rich creamy peach kernel, dried apricot and nut flavours. S-

Pierre Gaillard Côtes du Rhône Les Gendrines 2010, France (£19.90 Berry Bros & Rudd)
Not afraid to flaunt its flesh, rich, exotic and confident style, combining opulent apricot, peach and nut kernel flavours with notes of honey, honeysuckle and jasmine. Bit of a bimbo, but a very attractive bimbo. S(+)

Domaine de Monteillet Condrieu Les Grandes Chaillees 2010, Rhône, France (£33.99 Field and Fawcett, Noel Young, The Sampler, Worth Brothers)
A more cerebral take on Viognier, does have the proud peachy nuttiness and spicy floral characters, but they’re underpinned by an earthy, stony minerality. Rich but restrained, profound but never forgetting to be delicious. G

Wine Tasting Video: Chardonnays from Burgundy, Chile, California & New Zealand

Posted by Simon on March 12, 2013

Dominic Hentall Saint Véran 2010, Burgundy, France (£15.99 Naked Wines)
Good mix of zesty citrus freshness with a softer, rounded cooked apple character, plus a slightly dough-like character reminiscent of undercooked cake mix. B

Domain Parigot Meursault ‘Les Vireuils Dessous’ 2010, Burgundy, France (£32.99 The Perfect Cellar)
Lean and lovely, with precise, poised apple and lemon flavours combining with a salty spent match note and some toasty oak, and a light floral edge as well. Delicious now, but the way it improves in the glass suggests a promising future. S+

Louis Latour Château de Blagny Meursault Blagny 1er Cru 2009, Burgundy, France (£29.99 Majestic)
It feels like there are 2 wines here. I like the taut minerally tang of the lively fresh part, but there’s also fatter, more clumsy, cheesy edge. Watched this over three days, and this stand-off never resolved itself. B+

Hahn Chardonnay 2011, Monterey, California (£12.99-£13.99 Spirited Wines, Wine Rack, Waitrose)
Friendly but simple style, spoiled by the sort of crude vanilla sweetness that went out of fashion in the mid-1990s. C

De Martino 347 Chardonnay 2010, Limarí, Chile (£9.99 Virgin Wines)
Pleasant enough, crisp and fresh, with a green tang to the slightly jelly-like citrus flavours, but it’s just too simple for real class. B-

Greywacke Chardonnay 2010, Marlborough, New Zealand (£25.99 Carruthers & Kent, The Colchester Wine Company, Field & Fawcett, Great Horkesley Wine Centre, Harper Wells, Imbibros, Martinez Wines, Richard Granger Wines, Slurp.co.uk, The Vineyard, The Vineking, Wined Up Here, Winedirect.co.uk, Aitken Wines)
Fine-boned style, quite rich with fleshy plum and rhubarb flavours combining with the appley citrus acidity, some spent match complexity and taut, savoury finish. Rich but sleek – I’d never have guessed it had 14.5% alcohol. S(+)

Wine Tasting Video: Assorted Italian Whites

Posted by Simon on February 11, 2013

Purato Cataratto/Pinot Grigio IGT Sicilia 2011 (£6.99-£7.99 Ocado, Rhythm & Booze)
Attractive honest juicy gluggable style, lively peachy fruit with a slightly smoky citrus bite and a touch of walnut skins, not too complex but satisfying. B+

The Society’s Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico 2011, Marches (£6.25 The Wine Society)
Combines rounded creamy/nutty flavours, with leaner citrussy acidity, and adds in a fresh soft apple character too. B+

Guerrieri Rizzardi Costeggiola Soave Classico 2011, Veneto (£14.99 Fortnum & Mason)
I like the rounded rich honesty and fresh finish, but I miss the herby Soave edge – the Chardonnay certainly contributes peachy but it tramples over the rest of the wine. B

Piccini Memoro Vino Blanco d’Italia NV (£9.49 Tesco)
With its big pineapple chunk and cling peach fruit and smoky oak, this is almost like early 1990s Aussie Sem/Chard. Does have some freshness but overall too big, too rich, too oily. B-

Wine Tasting Video: Chilean Viognier, Austrian Gruner Veltliner & Riesling from Australia & Germany

Posted by Simon on February 7, 2013

Laurenz V Charming Grüner Veltliner 2011, Kamptal, Austria (£20.25 Bibendum)
Rich but dry and structured style, balancing peach and pineapple plumpness with a citrus bite and an underpinning of stony minerality, lovely wine. S

Prinz von Hessen Riesling Steckenpferd 2011, Rheingau, Germany (N/A in the UK)
Sweet and sour style with tense orange and cranberry flavours and a juicy sweetness – remember Fruit Salad chews? Soil and mineral notes lurk in the background, while zesty acidity holds it all together. S(+)

Woolundry Road Riesling 2011, Margaret River, Australia (£9.99 Virgin Wines)
Precise, restrained style, lots of toasty lemon and lime flavours, clean, rich and ripe, but maybe just a touch simple. S-

Harvey Nichols Riesling 2011 (Killikanoon), Clare Valley, Australia (£16 Harvey Nichols)
Taut, aristocratic style, with an upright, even steely backbone of crisp acidity and river pebble mineral notes, and vibrant lemon, lime and Grannie Smiths apple flavours. Tight and lean to start with, but uncurls beautifully with time, and should age brilliantly. S+

Casa Silva Lolol Viognier 2011, Colchagua, Chile (£11.95 Avery’s, Frank Stainton Wines, Harrods, Inverarity 1:1)
Is there a better Chilean Viognier than this? Classic peachy nut kernel and creamy richness, but with enough tang and freshness to hold it all together. Yummy wine. S-

Wine Tasting Video: Sauvignon Blanc from South Africa, Australia & Chile

Posted by Simon on January 25, 2013

Stonehaven Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Western Cape, South Africa (£7.99 The Co-op)
One of those wines that grows on you. Young and sappy with decent pithy fruit, but it’s the stony mineral character that makes the strongest impression. B

Fox Gordon Family Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Adelaide Hills, Australia (£11.99 Waitrose)
Smells OK, with lemon and gooseberry (fresh and pie) in evidence. Tastes OK too, but it’s just a little too jelly-like for real class. B-

Seven Springs Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Overberg, South Africa (£11-£12 Loki Wine, Bijou Bottles, Proteas Wines, Underwood Wines, C. A. Rookes, S.H. Jones, Frasers Budgens (Yarnton & Marlborough), City Beverage Company)
Light, fresh style, with taut citrus and green apple plus something a bit more voluptuous like nectarine, and peppery mint and herb notes adding personality. Maybe not as rich as 2010, but perhaps more elegant? S(-)

Errázuriz Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Casablanca, Chile (£10.99 Majestic)
Once you get past the nutty sulphur character, this is quite a full, rich style, with vanilla-scented custard apple, very ripe pear and strawberry flesh tempered by herby citrus restraint. I don’t mind the richness but I’d like a little more subtlety & poise. B(+)

Errázuriz Aconcagua Costa Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Chile (£12.49 Waitrose, Wine Rack, Booths, Berry Bros, Averys, Slurp.co.uk)
A sleeker style, still quite rich (and with the nutty sulphur to start with) showing some peachy flesh, but then the herby lime and lemon flavours bring some decorum, and the overall result is very pleasing. S-

Doña Dominga Single Vineyard ‘La Laguna’ Sauvignon Blanc/Viognier 2011, Colchagua, Chile (£7.11 Waitrose)
Bit of a stand-off between the bright herby bright edge of Sauvignon and the plump peach and apricot of Viognier. Ultimately not sure whether it wants to be and finishes in flat, jelly-like fashion. C(-)

Wine Tasting Video: New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough & Hawke’s Bay

Posted by Simon on January 24, 2013

Rod Easthope Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Hawke’s Bay (£11.99 Naked Wines)
Gentle style, a touch off-dry with reasonable citrus, rhubarb and crisp apple notes, but marred by excessive green pepper character. C+

Tinpot Hut Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Marlborough (£12.99 Liberty Wines)
Quite a rich, full style, a touch sweaty (in a nice way!) with good tension between minerally citrus fruit and a fleshier tropical edge, again some green pepper, but here, it’s not centre stage. Good but not great. B

Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Marlborough (£16.99 contact Liberty Wines for stockists – couldn’t fit all the 40+ companies in here!)
Subtle, sleek style, starts off quietly then uncurls to show its herb-tinged citrus, gooseberry and asparagus flavours and taut mineral nature, lovely balance of richness & freshness. S(+)

Lay of the Land Destination Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Marlborough (£12.99 Naked Wines)
Mandarin oranges and fruit salad chews! The soft, relaxed, rounded flavours are tempered by some zesty freshness, but it’s just a bit simple and jelly-like for real class. B(-)

Esk Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Marlborough (£9.99 Wine Rack, Rhythm & Booze, Cambridge Wine Merchants, York Wine)
Losing some of its youthful vigour, and with some of the fresh fruit turning into the sweaty gooseberry pie and tinned pea/asparagus of middle age, OK, but on a gentle decline. C+

Wine Tasting Video: Whites from Rueda, Rias Baixas, Languedoc, Terra Alta & Alentejo

Posted by Simon on January 15, 2013

Marquês de Borba Alentejo Branco 2011, Portugal (£8.70 Tanners)
Quite full in flavour but with enough citrus acidity to rein it in, this combines taut lemon and nectarine flavours with a fleshier, nuttier peach and apricot kernel side to good effect. Just let down by a slightly jelly-like finish. B(+)

Castillo de la Luna Rueda Verdejo 2011,  Spain (£8.49 Virgin Wines)
Sappy style, opens up to show weighty peach and ripe citrus fruit, perfectly decent, but a little flat on the finish. B(-)

Finca Arantei Rías Baixas Albariño 2011,  Spain (£11-12 All About Wine, Butlers Wine Cellar)
Alluring, musky aromas, then a cocktail of zesty grapefruit and tender apricot flavours, with a lovely nutty finish. S

HdR Grenache Vermentino Pays des Côtes de Thau 2011, Languedoc, France (£8.99 Virgin Wines)
There’s the fresh citrus and pine edge of Vermentino, but it’s slightly submerged by the plump peachy character of Grenache, rounded and fleshy but could be crisper. B-

La Multa Catalana Old Vine Garnacha Blanco 2011. Terra Alta, Spain (£9.99 Virgin Wines)
More of that plump peachy Grenache fruit, but here there’s also a tender floral note (honeysuckle) and a touch of honey to add complexity, rounded and confident, and carries its 14% alcohol well. S-