Gimenez Riili Perpetuum Premium Torrontés 2011, Famatina Valley, La Rioja, Argentina (£10.95 Cupari Wines)
I like the gingery spice, the confected lemon jelly cube character is OK, I’m not so keen on the washing up liquid note, C
Mairena Torrontés 2011, Cafayate, Salta, Argentina (£10.95 Cupari Wines)
A weightier, more floral version of the above – better, but still not fine. C+
Pierre Gaillard Côtes du Rhône Les Gendrines 2010, France (£19.90 Berry Bros & Rudd)
Not afraid to flaunt its flesh, rich, exotic and confident style, combining opulent apricot, peach and nut kernel flavours with notes of honey, honeysuckle and jasmine. Bit of a bimbo, but a very attractive bimbo. S(+)
Domaine de Monteillet Condrieu Les Grandes Chaillees 2010, Rhône, France (£33.99 Field and Fawcett, Noel Young, The Sampler, Worth Brothers)
A more cerebral take on Viognier, does have the proud peachy nuttiness and spicy floral characters, but they’re underpinned by an earthy, stony minerality. Rich but restrained, profound but never forgetting to be delicious. G
Tesco Chianti Classico 2010 (£6.99 Tesco)
Warm, earthy, Wednesday-evening type of wine, slightly chewy with some freshness, and enough hearty cherry and plum fruit to pad it out. B(+)
Castellare Chianti Classico 2010 (£15.95 Bibendum)
Polished plummy plushness, modern style with blackberries and blackcurrant alongside the cherries, and touches of spice and vanilla to back it up. Purists might not like it, but it’s very tasty. S
Poggerino Chianti Classico 2009 (£15.50 Lea & Sandeman)
Light and charming, delicate and fragrant, with juicy cherry and red berry, an undercurrent of earthiness, and a fresh finish. High cheekboned style, with effortless allure. S(+)
Barone Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva 2009 (£16.99 selected Sainsbury’s)
Another from the modernist school, with the leafy blackcurrant and berry pointing to the inclusion of some Bordeaux grapes. But there’s still enough of the spicy cherry kernel, cola and herb to say that this is Chianti. S
The last in a series of three videos on red wines that – according to a range of wine merchants in the Yorkshire Dales – might not be averse to a spell in the fridge, and which could be served in Spring with lamb. The first and second are here. and here. This selection sees the Bordeaux grapes pressed into action…
Moulin de Gassac Merlot Pays d’Hérault 2011, Languedoc, France (£8.75 Terroir Languedoc)
Big, plump & plummy but still with a fresh herbal edge to the dark berry fruit, not afraid to show a little tannin but ends up refreshing and perky. S
Foncalieu Cabernet Sauvignon Réserve Saint Marc Pays d’Oc 2011, Languedoc, France (£6.30 Yorkshire Vintners)
Reasonable berry and blackcurrant flavours, but let down by a clumsy, dusty sawdust and vanilla oak edge which smothers the juiciness of the fruit. C(-)
Domaine Mas Barrau Cabernet Franc Pays du Gard 2011, Languedoc, France (£6.99 Booths)
Starts off in sulky, sulphury fashion. This dissipates after a while, allowing the tar and berry flesh to come through, but while there’s some of the Cab Franc fragrance, there’s also a baked character, and not enough freshness – it’s 15% alcohol… C(+)
Grant Burge Sparkling Shiraz Cabernet NV, Barossa Valley, Australia (£22.50 Nidderdale Fine Wines)
Fascinating style combining the mature soft leathery toffee characters of traditional Barossa reds with something softer and more perfumed, almost as if there was Moscato or Viognier in the blend. Maybe not as brawny as some sparkling Aussie reds, but as a result all the more gluggable. S-
The second in a series of three videos on red wines that – according to a range of wine merchants in the Yorkshire Dales – might not be averse to a spell in the fridge, and which could be served in Spring with lamb. The first and third videos are here and here. Today, it’s all Pinot Noir…
Domaine de Clovallon Pinot Noir Pays d’Oc 2011, Languedoc, France (£12.50 Terroir Languedoc)
Juicy but tender style, with spicy strawberry and raspberry flavours, gentle tannins and an unforced yumminess. S(-)
Pacifico Sur Pinot Noir Reserva 2010, Curicó, Chile (£9.60 Yorkshire Vintners)
Bold in flavour, but has the blackcurranty reduced character of Chile, and veers towards the overripe, with a slightly minty note to its stewed red fruit. C(+)
Windy Peak Pinot Noir by De Bortoli 2010, Victoria, Australia (£9.99 Booths)
Quite pale in colour, and not hugely concentrated, but offers generous ripe red berry and cherry flavours and a backbone of spicy tannin and acidity. S(-)
The first in a series of three videos on red wines that – according to a range of wine merchants in the Yorkshire Dales – might not be averse to a spell in the fridge, and which could be served in Spring with lamb. The second and third videos are here and here.
Ponte del Diavolo Refosco 2011, Friuli, Italy (£9.50 Ake & Humphris)
Light, smoky bramble, red berry (cooked and fresh) and cherry, with some savoury, spicy notes and a refreshing finish. Fuller than the 12.5% would suggest. S-
Aga Navarra Tinto Roble 2011, Spain (£7.15 Yorkshire Vintners)
Has the lush mellow strawberry and gentle smoky vanilla of aged Rioja, backed up by a little tannin, with some notes of mulberry and fennel to add further interest. B+
Château Grande Cassagne La Civette Costières de Nimes 2009, Languedoc, France (£8.50 Terroir Languedoc)
Needs a little coaxing to come out of its shell, but soon the gentle berry flavours emerge, pepped up by some wilder earthy herby notes. Juicy and supple, effortlessly drinkable. S(-)
Foncalieu Mazets de Saint Victor Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun 2011, France (£9.00 Yorkshire Vintners)
Spicy youngster with dark berry plum and damson flavours, some fragrant citrus peel and herb aromas, and a slightly leathery note on the finish. Good fresh glugger. B+
Aliança Vista TR 2008, Beiras, Portugal (£6.95 Corks & Cases)
Has a slightly green/ herbal edge, some of it from oak, some of it from fruit, but it’s backed up by some sweet strawberry flesh and something of the gingerbread and orange peel character of Touriga Nacional (15% of the blend, rest is Tinta Roriz), still young and juicy, with the flavours nicely in balance with the tangy acidity and earthy tannin. B(+)
Dominic Hentall Saint Véran 2010, Burgundy, France (£15.99 Naked Wines)
Good mix of zesty citrus freshness with a softer, rounded cooked apple character, plus a slightly dough-like character reminiscent of undercooked cake mix. B
Domain Parigot Meursault ‘Les Vireuils Dessous’ 2010, Burgundy, France (£32.99 The Perfect Cellar)
Lean and lovely, with precise, poised apple and lemon flavours combining with a salty spent match note and some toasty oak, and a light floral edge as well. Delicious now, but the way it improves in the glass suggests a promising future. S+
Louis Latour Château de Blagny Meursault Blagny 1er Cru 2009, Burgundy, France (£29.99 Majestic)
It feels like there are 2 wines here. I like the taut minerally tang of the lively fresh part, but there’s also fatter, more clumsy, cheesy edge. Watched this over three days, and this stand-off never resolved itself. B+
Hahn Chardonnay 2011, Monterey, California (£12.99-£13.99 Spirited Wines, Wine Rack, Waitrose)
Friendly but simple style, spoiled by the sort of crude vanilla sweetness that went out of fashion in the mid-1990s. C
De Martino 347 Chardonnay 2010, Limarí, Chile (£9.99 Virgin Wines)
Pleasant enough, crisp and fresh, with a green tang to the slightly jelly-like citrus flavours, but it’s just too simple for real class. B-
Château Pey la Tour Réserve Bordeaux Supérieur 2008 (£9.75 Wine Society, Oddbins)
Rather solid wine, has some leafy freshness, but some of the flavours veer a little towards the baked and jammy, and I’d prefer a little more fragrance. B(-)
Harvey Nichols Margaux 2009 (£25 Harvey Nichols)
Rounded but fragrant style, with a slightly salty tang to its fresh blackcurrant, plum and pomegranate flavours, classy structure and a lively, confident finish. S(+)
Château Chantelune Margaux 2007 (£36.99 The Perfect Cellar)
Showing some leathery development, and there’s also an earthy, leafy undergrowth note on top of the gentle blackcurrant and cigar box flavours. Nicely balanced, rich and satisfying. S
Château Haut-Marbuzet* Saint Estèphe 1997 (£43.99 The Perfect Cellar)
The freshness of youth has given way to a rounded plummy middle age, with figgy notes and a spicy, savoury richness. Finish just a little dry for real class (there’s a touch of brett), but a decent drink. S-
Champagne Jacquart Rosé NV, France (£27.95 Slurp.co.uk, Great Western Wine)
Quite subtle with some biscuit maturity to its raspberry and strawberry flavours, an elegant style, but given richness by a level of dosage which may be a touch to high for some. B+
Benjamin Darnault Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2011, France (£10.99 Naked Wines)
Soft, sweet and ripe, with hints of liquorice and black pepper, but it needs a little more freshness, and the fruit’s too jammy and baked for real class. B
Virgile Joly Languedoc Saint Saturnin Paradise 2009, France (£15.99 Naked Wines)
Fresh and vibrant young wine, feels younger than ’09, with floral notes (rose petal and violet) to its blackcurrant and light pomegranate flavours, and a hint of charcoal on the finish. S
Peacock Ridge Shiraz 2011, Western Cape, South Africa (£8.99 Boutinot)
Don’t mind the plummy berry and orange peel fruit, nor the hint of cinnamon, but there’s a smoky bonfire-like dryness that dominates and strips the pleasure. C
Sam Plunkett The Butterfly Effect Shiraz 2011, South Eastern Australia (£10.99 Naked Wines)
Sweet rounded plum jam flavours – I just find this too simple and jammy for any class, and the finish is slightly hard too. C+
Harvey Nichols Shiraz 2010 (Killikanoon), South Australia (£15 Harvey Nichols)
Rich, voluptuous style, packed with flavour. Lots of fleshy plum, berry and cherry flavours, with more earthy notes such as black pepper and liquorice, and an iron-like mineral freshness to the finish. S(+)
Las Moras Three Valleys Gran Shiraz 2006, San Juan, Argentina (£19.99 Virgin Wines)
Reasonable hearty berry fruit, with an aromatic character, but let down by oak handling – it feels as if someone has done a high toast level on poorly seasoned oak. The result is smoky bacon flavours, combined with a green, unripe character, and these never quite fit in with the rest of the wine. B
Purato Cataratto/Pinot Grigio IGT Sicilia 2011 (£6.99-£7.99 Ocado, Rhythm & Booze)
Attractive honest juicy gluggable style, lively peachy fruit with a slightly smoky citrus bite and a touch of walnut skins, not too complex but satisfying. B+
The Society’s Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico 2011, Marches (£6.25 The Wine Society)
Combines rounded creamy/nutty flavours, with leaner citrussy acidity, and adds in a fresh soft apple character too. B+
Guerrieri Rizzardi Costeggiola Soave Classico 2011, Veneto (£14.99 Fortnum & Mason)
I like the rounded rich honesty and fresh finish, but I miss the herby Soave edge – the Chardonnay certainly contributes peachy but it tramples over the rest of the wine. B
Piccini Memoro Vino Blanco d’Italia NV (£9.49 Tesco)
With its big pineapple chunk and cling peach fruit and smoky oak, this is almost like early 1990s Aussie Sem/Chard. Does have some freshness but overall too big, too rich, too oily. B-
