Albariño meets Alvarinho


Lagar de Cervera Albariño 2016, Rías Baixas, Spain (£15 Armit)
Classic bracing style, setting sappy green apple and citrus freshness against more exotic, fleshier peach/nectarine flavours, with floral aromas and a nutty, creamy character. Full in flavour, but medium bodied, with a clean, pungent finish. S-

Casa do Capitão-Mor Alvarinho 2016, Monção e Melgaço, Vinho Verde, Portugal (N/A in the UK)
Fascinating contrast between this and the above wine. This is richer and rounder but more backward, still with the citrus tension, but with weightier peachy flesh, and with the floral edge veering towards honeysuckle. S-

Casa do Capitão-Mor Alvarinho Reserva 2016, Monção e Melgaço, Vinho Verde, Portugal (N/A in the UK)
Even more backward, but given time, it unfurls in the glass to show its intensity and class. Rich and heady, silky in texture with nutty nectarine flavours wrapped around a spine of sleek citrus acidity and (thanks to a little skin contact) a touch of tannin. Excellent wine that should drink well for five years at least. S(+)

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