The finest rosé in the world?

Château d’Esclans ‘Garrus’ Côtes de Provence 2012, France (~£70-£80 Berkmann Wine Cellars, Bibendum, Bordeaux Index, Ellis of Richmond, Fine & Rare, www.fromvineyardsdirect.com, Goedhuis, Jeroboams)
Very pale in colour, and needs a little coaxing to persuade it to show its true self – this is a rosé that would benefit from decanting. There’s a touch of red berry fruit, along with a hint of plum, but there’s also a richer, more exotic peachy side, maybe even some banana and pineapple, plus creamy nutty notes and a hint of the herby/sandy character I find in many Provençal pinks. Watching it unfurl is fascinating: the flavours expand, but the aristocratic backbone also comes to the fore. Suspect it’s peak will be in 2-3 years, but it will be fascinating to see how it tastes at ten years old. G(-)

(As for how it went down with the other tasters later that evening, its biggest fan was someone whose normal diet is beefy reds – ‘this is super, really fine and delicate.’ And hardly any complaints about the price…)