It’s not as prominent as red port, but white port still merits attention. But should you drink it neat or with additions? Mixed messages from these two wines…
Cálem White & Dry Port NV, Douro, Portugal (£12.90 Amathus Drinks)
By itself: Quite weighty, with an alcoholic kick to the sweet heady crystallied pineapple and orange flavours, backed up by notes of marzipan, nougat and honey. Would like to try it chilled with tarte tatin.
With the mixers: Those rich, heady elements are freshened up by the pithiness of the grapefruit, the hedgerow edge of the elderflower cordial and the bitter note of tonic. Very tasty, and probably quite dangerous…
Taylor’s Chip Dry White Port NV, Douro, Portugal (£13.29 Waitrose)
By itself: Similar in fruit flavours to the Cálem, with that crystallised fruit character prominent, and just as nutty, with marzipan and almond to the fore. But this shows a stronger imprint of wood-aging, so there are more dried fruit notes, especially figs and raisins, plus a touch if vanilla-scented white chocolate.
With the mixers: The additions seem to accentuate the nutty, woody edge of the port, I prefer this by itself – chilled with white chocolate mousse please – whereas I prefer the Cálem in cocktail form.