Oh my, what a tasty surprise from a bottle I pulled out in the search for something to partner crispy aromatic duck (I’m ashamed to say a yellow sticker purchase from Sainsbury’s). It worked a treat, but then, post dinner, went on to excel as a solo performer. There’s a nutty, minerally edge plus a yeasty lees character here that could almost be from the Côte d’Or, but the green appley tension reminds you of its Chenin Blanc origins. Maturing nicely, but still with plenty of years ahead of it, rich but dry, with a corset of acidity, a beautiful wine, with a burnt sugar character minus the sweetness. I think it was from Laytons/Jeroboams at around £12, but I can’t see it (or a more recent vintage) on the web site. But I’ll be keeping an eye out for more from Vincent Carême in the future.