Four Chardonnays from four countries


…including some biggish names that weren’t quite as good as I’d have hoped…

Clotilde Davenne Bourgogne Blanc 2014, France (was £10.95 From Vineyards Direct)
From vineyards close to Chablis, so the pert, minerally character and mix of crispness and creaminess come as no surprise. Lovely balanced style, excellent value, the only pity is that the importers have moved now onto the 2015 vintage. Which judging by this should be lovely. S(-)

Leeuwin Prelude Chardonnay 2013, Margaret River, Australia (£26-£29 Domaine Direct, D Byrne & Co., Four Walls Wine Co., Harrods, Hedonism Wines, Jeroboams, Secret Cellar, Taurus Wines, Winedirect.co.uk)
A bit showy to start with, then calms down to show more restrained fruit than in the past. But there’s still a little too much oak, giving a bitter/tannic edge, and this in conjunction with the citrus acidity gives an almost soapy finish (tasted a few times over 48 hours). B

Seresin Chardonnay Reserve 2014, Marlborough, New Zealand (£29.00 The New Zealand Cellar, Wine Utopia, D Vine Cellars, Field & Fawcett, Park & Bridge, Planet of the Grapes, The Wine Society, Salut Wines)
Slightly bitter edges here, a touch of tannin, there’s quite proud citrus fruit, flesh and pith, it seems to be trying to be fine and chiselled, but it forgets to attractive – an ice maiden wine. Three days after opening, it’s still very fresh but retains that haughty note. B+

Torres Milmanda 2013, Conca de Barbera, Spain (£27.49 Hailsham Cellars)
Solid, ripe style, there’s a slight nuttiness, pineapple and nectarine reined in by a hint of lime, but the attempts at subtlety are hampered by the warmth of alcohol. B(+)

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