Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo Reserve Porto NV (£9.95 per 500 ml Halifax Wine Company, Oakley Wine Agencies)
Juicy young port, warm and welcoming, with an almost velvety texture, broad but still fragrant berry and damson flavours, and a citrus tang to the finish – you could almost drink this with steak. B(+)

Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo LBV Port 2005 (bottled 2009) (£16.50 Halifax Wine Company, Oakley Wine Agencies)
Smells just like a port winery at vintage time, with that heady floral grape must edge, powerful peppery black fruit and a sweet fleshy finished tinged with dusty herbs and spice. S(+)

Noval LBV Port 2003 (bottled 2008) (£12.99 Oddbins, Tesco, Booths, Ocado, Rhythm & Booze)
Speaks of the warm vintage, this has a hit of ripe fruit but comes over just too hot and raisinny – it’s intense but it lacks the freshness I want in LBV. B-

Noval 10 Year Old Tawny Port (£15.99 Waitrose, Ocado, Fortnum & Mason)
A gentle winter warmer, showing some spirity grip as well as lithe raisin, coffee, walnut and treacle toffee notes. Not too big, and with a refreshing edge to the finish. S(-)