A name to watch. Jean-Baptiste Ponsot (nothing to do with the Ponsots of Morey St Denis) took the helm of the family estate in Rully six years ago, aged twenty, since when he’s been developing something of a loyal following. These two 2007’s show why. The Rully Blanc 1er Cru Montpalais is lush yet structured, with a creamy core, mealy intensity, tangy citrus and pineapple flavours with the oak (25% new) nicely in balance, and a zesty finish. The Rully Rouge 1er Cru Molesmes starts off with a wild bramble and prune edge, plus an ever-so-slightly rustic stalky spiciness (or spicy stalkiness? discuss…), and then turns richer and headier, with an exotic kirsch-like character coming to the fore. In this vintage, I side with the white, but both wines are really tasty, and beat the pants off all but a few similarly priced wines from the Côte d’Or. Both are £16.08 from Domaine Direct.