Loire Chenin Part 2 – The Savennières Itch

Domaine FL Savennières ‘Chamboureau’ 2007 (£24.99 Whole Foods Market London, Cooden Cellars, Liberty Wines)
Appley intensity, earthy metallic minerality, not for everyone, but fine-boned, rich, pure, complex and fresh, tense and lively. Uncoils over several hours to show hidden richness, several years still ahead of it. S(+)

Château de Chamboureau Savennières Cuvée d’Avant 2005 (£14.50 Yapp Brothers)
A more relaxed, developed wine, with the green apple turning brown, and also some touches of quince. Rich but dry, good but lacks the purity of the FL. S- (owner Pierre Soulez sold the Chamboureau vineyards to Domaine FL in 2006)

Domaine Laureau Savennières ‘Cuvée des Genets’ 1999 (£16.79 Oddbins – although the web site says it’s £23.99)
Showing honeyed, nutty maturity, and a hint of cooked apples, you think it’s going to be sweet, but it’s bone dry. Maybe not the most complex of Savennières, but nicely balanced and feeling richer than its 12.5% alcohol. S(-)

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