Semillon – a very fine swan indeed

Ferngrove “Symbols” Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2009, Frankland River, Western Australia (£8.99-£9.50 Seckford Agencies)
Crisp, grassy, herby, with the Semillon adds punchy pungent weight to the citrussy treble notes of Sauvignon. Nice seafood style. B+

Leaping Lizard Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Western Australia (£7.99-£8.50 Seckford Agencies)
Not as immediate and forward as the above, richer but not better with some honey and nut amid the citrus and tropical fruit, lacks the Ferngrove’s élan. B-

Château de Sours Bordeaux Blanc 2008, France (£10.17 Private Cellar)
Clasic white Bordeaux tang of tinned pear juice, quite mellow with ripe apple and fennel flavours, gentle, some warm spice, and power beyond the fragrance – has another couple of years ahead of it. S-

Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon 2005, Hunter Valley, Australia (£25
Firm, high cheek-boned youngster, rich yet bracing with tangy greengage, lemon and lime flavours, with toast & honey just coming through,  and a hint of custard too. Opens up over 24 hours to show a fuller, fleshier style, but still some way from its peak. Lovely wine. S+

Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon 2002, Hunter Valley, Australia (£20-23 Noel Young, SWIG, Majestic)
The extra maturity gives this more richness and creamy weight, although it’s still a pup, with SO2 (sulphur dioxide) evident on the nose. Get beyond it and you find a wealth of citrus, green apple and honey plus a hint of buttered toast, just 10% alcohol, but comes across as being higher (looks much younger than a bottle I tried in Oct 2009 – production is all now with screwcap).  S(+)

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