Sherry from Waitrose & The Wine Society

This post is dedicated to the memory of Julian Brind MW, who died on December 19th. A great sherry enthusiast and a man largely responsible for the pre-eminence of Waitrose in the UK supermarket wine world, he was also a thoroughly nice man with an ever-present twinkle in his eye. Waitrose tastings just won’t be the same from now on. Read Jancis Robinson’s obituary of Julian here.

The Society’s Fino, Sánchez Romate (£5.95 The Wine Society)
Quite rich for fino, but has the classic briny bready intensity, juicy pear and apple flavours and touch of iodine. S-

Waitrose Solera Jerezana Fino del Puerto Sherry, Lustau (£8.19 Waitrose)
Oh yum. This bounds out of the glass in bready, yeasty fashion, shows of its fine boned vibrant fruit and finishes with delicious, dainty confidence. Essence of fino. G-

Waitrose Solera Jerezana Manzanilla Sherry, Lustau (£8.19 Waitrose)
Richer than the fino, with more of the marine influence, still very tasty, but just lacks the extra mile – and slightly suffers by being preceded by a superstar. S-

Waitrose Solera Jerezana Dry Oloroso Sherry, Lustau (£8.19 Waitrose)
Lots of personality here – raisin, fig, burnt sugar, dates, walnuts, candied peel and more. Also has that scalp itching smoky iodine intensity, another bargain. S

The Society’s Exhibition Viejo Oloroso Sherry, Sanchez Romate (£10.95 The Wine Society)
Takes the fruit cake intensity of the above, and adds in notes of treacle toffee and an almost Old Peculier-like dark malt character. Full fleshy and tangy style, with a warm, savoury intensity. S+

Waitrose Solera Jerezana Rich Cream Sherry, Lustau (£8.19 Waitrose)
Slightly odd mix of old and young flavours – the treacle toffee and Christmas cake of age with the almost Muscat-like candied peel and barley sugar characters of a younger sweet wine. It’s not hugely sweet, nor very rich, but while it’s a touch simple, it’s still very tasty. B+

The Society’s Exhibition Viejo Oloroso Dulce Sherry, Sánchez Romate (£10.95 The Wine Society)
Deep in colour, authoritative and complex, with savoury briny rich figgy fruit cake and treacle toffee character and a finish that combines a rich hearty sweetness with a scalp itching briny note. S(+)

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