Sparkling wines from East Sussex & Champagne


Whoops, forgot to post a video yesterday. Here are two to make up for that. These are similarly priced sparkling wines, but one seems decidedly happier than the other…

Henners Brut Reserve 2009, East Sussex, England (£27 D.Byrne & Co, Cellar 28, Buon Vino, Vagabond)
Interesting mixture – the wine is still quite young and tight, but there’s evidence of bottle age. So there’s youthful green apple and pineapple freshness, but there’s also a slightly mushroomy earthiness, plus some funky yeasty/leesy notes. I like that this hasn’t been rushed out too soon, allowing the gawkiness of adolescence to mellow. S(-)

Champagne Canard-Duchêne Authentic Réserve NV, France (£26.99 Waitrose)
Bit of a curate egg, this. There’s a sharp apple and citrus note, but also a more developed baked apple character, as if the blend had both very young and quite mature wines in. Unfortunately, the older element has just a note of stale yeastiness, which spoils the party. C+

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