Sometimes Ribera del Duero can be a bit too big for its boots, but these three were very good.
Finca Villacreces Ribera del Duero 2009, Spain (£28.99 Whole Foods Market, The Wine Reserve, Eton Vintners, South Downs Cellars, Charlie Crown, Grape & Grind, The Cellar at Clevedon, Aitken Wines, Thedrinkshop.com, Winedirect.co.uk)
Grown-up, knowing sort of wine, deep in flavour but still elegant and lively. The warm berry flavours sit just the right side of overripeness and are livened up by fragrant notes of orange peel and spice, while the finish is meaty and welcoming, with enough tannin to hint at a promising future. S(+)
Aster One Ribera del Duero 2006, Spain (£11.75 Oddbins)
Gentle developed style, with leathery, meaty notes to the berry fruit, hints of coconut and orange peel, and supple tannins. One for sooner rather than later. S(-)