Up the Chablis ladder from Petit Chablis to Grand Cru

A lovely set of wines from Jean-Marc Brocard

Domaines Brocard Petit Chablis Sainte Anne 2008 (£10.99 Oddbins)
Bracing young wine, fresh and flinty, with creamy citrus fruit and a briny note to the finish. B+

Chablis Domaine des Manants 2008 (£10.79-£13.49 Balls Brothers, House of Townend, SH Jones, Grapevine (Cockermouth), Vineyard (Isle of Man), Weavers of Nottingham)
Bigger, fleshier wine with some quite exotic guava, passionfruit and prach flavours, but still with a cool calm feel, and the rapier-like backbone. S-

Julien Brocard Chablis Domaine de la Boissonneuse 2008 (£16.99 Adnams, HT White, Gerrard Seel)
Similarly exotic fruit, but there’s more minerality here, with clay-like notes, crisp green apple acidity and a subtle, tangy finish. Promising future. S

Chablis Premier Cru Selection Domaines Brocard 2008 (£12.99 Sainsbury’s)
Feels simple after the Boissonneuse. There’s still the keen backbone and citrus/apple flesh, along with a hint of cashew, but it lacks the extra mile. B+

Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Premier Cru Quintessence de la Rive Gauche de la Serein 2007 (£15.47 Tesco online and selected stores)
More backward than the previous wine, but there are touches of exotic fruit tinged with lemon & green apple, a hint of gunflint and a steely mineral backbone. Still to reach its peak. S-

Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2007 (£36.99-38.98 Balls Brothers, SH Jones, Weavers of Nottingham)
The most backward of the sextet, but also the most powerful, with waxy lanolin notes, firm fleshy fruit, with again that tangy tension between the exotic (crystallised pineapple) and the tauter flavours of citrus and Grannie Smiths. Long minerally finish – this was splendid and more than held its own the day after with barbecued prawns. G-

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