Update on yesterday’s reds


Revisited the the three reds I opened yesterday, with mixed success. Even after 24 hours, Anakena’s 2006 Ona red blend and the Errazuriz 2002 La Cumbre Shiraz are still too boisterous and fruity (with that tell-tale, rather raw, even charred blackcurrant pastille character). But the Cuilleron is singing. Or at least it was singing – the bottle is now empty. It had relaxed, opened up to show its charms, and was just charming, fragrant and even refreshing, with lithe fruit, not too much spice, and a gentle orange peel lilt to its pummy flesh. Chile has come a long way in recent years, but I wonder how long we’ll have to weight for genuinely interesting and complex, refreshing, medium-bodied wines like this…

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