What a fascinating set of four wines! It’s the first half of a set of 8 whites I had to get through recently, so I sorted them by height…. The second batch is here.

Tesco Finest Picpoul de Pinet 2010, Languedoc, France (£7.29 Tesco)
Has a bit more oomph than Picpoul used to have, but there’s still the briny bite, alongside cooked green apple flavours and a green leafy/grassy note. Bits of it remind me of Chablis, other bits of Grüner Veltliner. S-
Tesco is holding its annual Wine Fairs this autumn – the remaining ones are in Bristol (1/2 Oct), Edinburgh (15/16 Oct) & London (22/23 Oct). Tickets are normally £10, but Drinking Outside the Box fans can get 4 Sunday tickets for the price of 3 at any Fair. Book now – call 0845 330 5072 or visit www.tescowinefair.com and quote TWF-SW-11

Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico 2010, Marche, Italy (£5.99 Sainsbury’s)
Another one with a slightly salty note, as well as a touch of spritz. Rich lively peach/nectarine flavours, a clay-like earthiness, and a fresh, tangy finish. S-

Lahnhof Kerner ‘Eisacktal’ 2010, Alto Adige, Italy (£32.45 Grossi Wines, Club Vini Italiani)
Fragrant, floral and packed with flavour, although it’s not exactly subtle. Reminds me of one of those Alsace blends, with the oily rose petal, ginger and lychee of Gewürztraminer, the body of Pinot Gris and a little Sylvaner smokiness. Have given it a higher mark than the previous two, but I’m not sure what to do with it… S

Béres Löcse Furmint 2007, Tokaji, Hungary (£13.99 Hungarian Wine Society)
A real love-it-or-hate it wine, reminiscent of one of those dry wines with botrytis they make in Sauternes. Big, waxy and heady style, with weighty honeycomb and honeysuckle to the fore – think the inside of a Crunchie – and crystallised oranges, hazelnuts and almonds in the background. Big and solid, but compelling. S