The world’s finest Rosé? Can’t think of anything better…

Château d’Esclans ‘Whispering Angel’ Côtes de Provence Rosé 2009 (£13.49 Bibendum, Philglas & Swiggot, Whole Foods)
Young and quite vigorous, with some poke and punch to the apple, blackberry and blackcurrant flavours, plus a sandy earthy side, rich but still fresh. S-

Château d’Esclans ‘Esclans’ Côtes de Provence Rosé 2008 (£17.99 Bibendum)
Reminds me of a mythical blend of Pouilly-Fuissé and Côtes du Rhône, with the hazelnutty richness and slightly stern minerally backbone of the former, and the warm wildness and depth of the latter. Very tasty and relaxed. S

Château d’Esclans ‘Les Clans’ Côtes de Provence Rosé 2008 (£49.99 Bibendum)
Even more of a Burgundian feel here with the toasty, nutty, benevolent spent match character of something like Lafon, but also a slightly petrolly note of Alsace Riesling. Add in red berry and orchard fruit flavours and the toasty leesy richness and you have a wine that you could sit and sniff for hours. S(+)

Château d’Esclans ‘Garrus’ Côtes de Provence Rosé 2008 (£74.99 Bibendum)
A dumber, richer yet more refined and restrained version of Les Clans, has the same seamless, minerally white Burgundy edge, rich fruit and some sandy spice on the finish. And judging by how it evolved over three days of tasting, it has a very promising future. G-

Some of the wines are also available in the following London restaurants: Sketch, Nobu and The Savoy