Tons de Duorum Red 2011 (£8.20 The Real Wine Company, Duncan Murray, Totnes Wines, Halifax Wines, Tanners, Wine Cellar)
Joyously fruity youngster, with plush berry, damson and plum flavours, notes of earthy spice and a chewy backbone. S-

Quinta da Romaneira Liceiras 2009 (£12.99 Vagabond Wines, The Hampstead Butcher & Providore, Quaff Fine Wine Merchant, The Wine Chambers, West Mount Wine, Carruthers & Kent)
Light, gentle style, with a fragrant, herbal lift to its vibrant dark fruit, some iron-rich minerality and refreshing, leafy finish. S(-)

Sino da Romaneira 2008 (£17.99 Winearray, Twenty One Wines, Leamington Wine Company, Latitude Wine, Hanging Ditch Wine Merchants, Carruthers & Kent)
Gentle but hearty fruit, more plummy damson than berry, with herbs and stony minerality adding character to the finely-toned spicy flavours. S+

Quinta do Tedo 2008 (£15.99 Whole Foods Market, Martinez Wines, The Wine Shop, Grassington)
Big rich damson and berry flesh, but this veers too much to the overripe and raisinny, and there’s a savoury dryness to the finish that speaks of brett. B(+)

Quinta do Infantado Reserva 2008 (£27.99 Sipp London, Whole Foods Market, Eton Vintners, Winearray, D Byrne & Co, Harperwells.com)
Another big bold wine, but here there’s some freshness to the blackberry, blackcurrant and damson flavours, along with notes of mocha, warm earth and herbs, juicy and intense, but never OTT, and with brain as well as brawn. S(+)