Château Pey la Tour Réserve Bordeaux Supérieur 2008 (£9.75 Wine Society, Oddbins)
Rather solid wine, has some leafy freshness, but some of the flavours veer a little towards the baked and jammy, and I’d prefer a little more fragrance. B(-)

Harvey Nichols Margaux 2009 (£25 Harvey Nichols)
Rounded but fragrant style, with a slightly salty tang to its fresh blackcurrant, plum and pomegranate flavours, classy structure and a lively, confident finish. S(+)

Château Chantelune Margaux 2007 (£36.99 The Perfect Cellar)
Showing some leathery development, and there’s also an earthy, leafy undergrowth note on top of the gentle blackcurrant and cigar box flavours. Nicely balanced, rich and satisfying. S

Château Haut-Marbuzet* Saint Estèphe 1997 (£43.99 The Perfect Cellar)
The freshness of youth has given way to a rounded plummy middle age, with figgy notes and a spicy, savoury richness. Finish just a little dry for real class (there’s a touch of brett), but a decent drink. S-

*Not worth the click – you’ll get some info here