Luis Pato Natural Baga 2012, VR Beira Atlantico (£17.99 Raymond Reynolds Ltd)
This is gushing joyful wine, reminiscent of a winery at vintage, with heady violet and perfumed dark berry earthiness, a mouthful of exuberant fresh pleasure with just the right amount of rustic honesty. S

Asda Extra Special Dão 2011, Portugal (£7.25 Asda)
I like the juicy rounded berry and liquorice richness, and there’s a touch of vanilla too, but overall this just feels too controlled and contrived, especially after that Pato wine. B-

Finca Constancia Parcel 23 Tempranillo 2011, Vino de la Tierrra de Castilla, Spain (£10.99 Rollings Wines, Adnams, Vinea)
Juicy, satisfying stuff, with richer raspberry, blackberry and plum flavours balanced by citrus freshness, and with notes of warm earth, spice and vanilla adding further layers. S-

Cune Rioja Crianza 2010, Spain (£9.99 Majestic, Wine Rack, Booths, Dunedin Wines, Wallaces of Ayrshire, Luvians, Taurus Wines, Bin 21, Ellie’s Cellar, Cheers, Eynsham Cellars, Refreshers, Partridges, Slurp)
One of those wines that grows on you, starts off in light fashion, but uncurls to show its red berry and plum heart and tangy orange peel notes. Not huge, but elegant and delicious – and a fascinating contrast with the Finca Constancia. S-

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