Anciano Aged 3 Years Crianza 2007, Valdepeñas (£5.98 Asda)
Starts off well with welcoming characters of slightly baked berry fruit, dusty vanilla and chocolate, but is let down by a slightly hard finish. B-

Anciano Aged 7 Years Gran Reserva 2003, Valdepeñas (£8.99 Waitrose)
Corked – shame, as some reviews have been very positive.

Viñas del Vero La Miranda de Secastilla 2008, Somontano (£10.99 Ocado, The Vineyard)
More of that dusty Spanish warmth, has generous rounded plum and berry fruit infused with aromas of citrus, herbs and (yes) terracotta roof tiles, slightly too-dry finish but overall a decent gutsy glugger. B+

Viñas del Vero Secastilla 2005, Somontano (£19.99 Ocado, Noel Young, The Vineyard, Amps Fine Wines)
Châteauneuf for Rioja fans, this has the plummy herby warmth plus vanilla and citrus notes of its little brother, but there’s more complexity and generosity here, and while the finish is soft and friendly, there’s still plenty of freshness and vitality. S