Tenuta Degli Dei ‘Le Redini’ IGT Toscana 2008, Italy (~£18)
Quite a lush modern style with berry, sour cherry and damson skin flavours, Alicante adding some iron and herbiness and oak giving a smoky vanilla sheen, finishes in gentle, soft and supple style but maybe just too smooth? S-

Caiarossa IGT Toscana 2006, Italy (£39 Berry Bros & Rudd)
Very classy wine, manages to pack in the slightly spiky personality absent in Le Redini, shows notes of cola, herbs, chocolate, brooding dark fruit and grilled, herb-sprinkled meat, has richness and warmth, but still finishes with freshness. S+

Piccini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2007, Italy (£9.99 Sainsbury’s)
Struggles a little after Caiarossa, but still shows decent, slightly dusty cherry, berry and redcurrant flavours with a touch of vanilla, good bistro glug. B(+)

Dry Creek Heritage Zinfandel 2007, Sonoma County, California (contact Bibendum)
Starts well with briar, bramble and berry fruit and a touch of chocolate, but finish lacks structure – feels as if the winemaker was scared of making it too structured, and the result is just a little fey. B(+)