Big Wine, Little Wine – different wines from the same winery

Christophe Cordier Viré-Clessé Clos du Château 2008, Burgundy, France (£13.51 Domaine Direct)
Very forward and ripe for young Burgundy, with richness of fruit and toasty oak to the fore. But there’s also acidity, along with citrus, pear and apple flavours, and the oak’s not OTT. Good intro to Burgundy. B+

Domaine Cordier Pouilly-Fuissé Cuvée Première 2007, Burgundy France (£17.83 Domaine Direct)
Less ‘in yer face’ but also more restrained and relaxed than the Viré-Clessé, toasty oak making its presence felt, but in harmony with the rhubarb, ripe lemon and pear flavours and a cashew-like nuttiness. Classy and promising. S

Château Redortier Côtes du Rhône ‘Côté Dentelles’ 2008, Rhône, France (~£9 Smart Wines)
Refreshing peppery/stalky notes – you could almost chill this in summer – backed up by lovely rounded plump damson, blackcurrant and blackberry fruit surrounding, earthy iron-edged finish with a touch of herbs. S-

Château Redortier Gigondas 2006, Rhône, France (~£15 Smart Wines)
Riper and fleshier than the Côtes du Rhône, but never descends into overripe bimbo-dom. There’s a grilled meat type character, along with more of the iron edge, and there’s wonderful tangy black fruit in abundance. Very tasty, very moreish. S(+)

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