Pinot Noir – the world’s greatest grape, or just its most frustrating?


Blason de Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune 2007, Burgundy, France (£9.99 Sainsburys)
There’s some light cherry and raspberry fruit here, but it’s swamped by a weird dusty/stale chocolate edge. Hope this is a bad bottle… 0

Louis Latour Givry 2007, Burgundy, France (~£12.99 Ann et Vin, T Wright, Forth Wines, Hailsham Cellars, Willoughby’s Wine Warehouse, Peake Wine Associates, Satchells of Burnham Market, Weavers of Nottingham, Whole Foods Kensington, Windermere Wine Stores)
Light red fruit aromas, cherries and strawberries, pretty wine, a touch simple, not as concentrated and earthy as typical Givry, and tails off a little on the finish. B

Villa Maria Reserve Pinot Noir 2007, Marlborough, New Zealand (£16.99, Tesco, www.nzhouseofwine.co.uk)
The richest and fullest of the four wines, this is deep in colour and packed with lush warm berry and plum flavours. Very alluring, with touches of smoky vanilla, if there’s a problem, it’s that it’s lacks intrigue. But tasty wine. S(-)

De Bortoli Pinot Noir 2007, Yarra Valley, Australia (£15.99 Oddbins, Planet of the Grapes)
This is the one that slinks up to you in its svelte feline way, fragrant and seductive with touches of violet and coffee (almost like Corton), lithe strawberry and plum fruit, and some nervy notes from acidity and tannin. Improves on each sniff, nicely polished complex style. S(+)


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3 thoughts on “Pinot Noir – the world’s greatest grape, or just its most frustrating?

  • Charlotte Read

    Marlborough may not be as sexy for Pinot Noir as Martinborough or Central Otago – but who won top Pinot Noir of the competition in the International Wine and Spirit challenge in both 2005 and 2006! Villa Maria Marlborough Pinot Noir of course :)

    My trick for maximum enjoyment of our Reserve wine is to decant it in advance, as the wine can be very closed to begin with. I don’t have a posh decanter so I just put it in any old jug and pour in back in the bottle

  • Simon Post author

    Geoff, reminds me of a music critic who said of someone’s work that it was both good and original. ‘But the bits that were good were not original, and the bits that were original were not good.’ Hopefully the education and entertainment coincide on the videos…