Four white Burgundies

Blason de Bourgogne St Véran 2008 (£9.99 Tesco, Sainsbury’s, Waitrose)
Quite lively aromas, with peach and citrus coming through strongly, but the wine is actually quite restrained. Simple but fresh and honest, nice drink and good value. B(+)

Domaine Eugénie Carrion Chablis 2008 (£10.95
Starts of rather dumb, but then begins to uncurl and reveal flinty lime and green apple fruit, a vaguely nutty character and a sappy and refreshing finish. Best still to come. S-

Jean-François Protheau Rully 1er Cru ‘Gresigny’ 2007 (£14.95
Healthy modern style, not afraid to show some oak, and with punchy peach and guava flesh reined in by crisp limey acidity. Young and quite full-bodied, not complex but tasty and well-made. S-

Louis Latour Meursault 1er Cru La Goutte d’Or 2001 (from £32.99 Ann et Vin, T Wright, Whole Foods Market Kensington, Partridges, Bablake Wines)
Successful mix of tense, herb and fennel scented citrus and pineapple flavours with the hazelnutty, honey and honeysuckle notes of maturity, also a creamy oatmeal edge. Very tasty now, but still bags of life ahead of it – seems to get younger the longer it’s been opened. S+

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