Did anyone else used to have a pumice stone that was disguised as a mouse in their bathroom? Can’t remember the last time I was up close and dirty with one, but the smell of them lingers in my brain and I’ve just found it again in the Dourthe No1 Bordeaux Sauvignon 2008 (£6.99-£8.99 Waitrose, Booths, Wine Rack). There’s also that classic catty edge, plus a wealth of elderflower and lemon flavour, and with that pumice character adding a touch of welcome severity to the finish. Tasty stuff from one of Bordeaux’s top négociants, how does it compare with a Bordeaux Blanc from a smaller estate? Yesterday, I was on the red from Château Grand Village; today it’s the 2007 white (£8.50 armit), which has some Sauvignon in the blend, but is mostly Sémillon. And while there’s some herby zing from Sauvignon in there somewhere, it’s the more rotund, honeyed, waxy Semillon that has the upper hand here, and which will mellow into custardy middle age over the next couple of years. Which is the better wine? They’re both very nice, and quite different. Drink the Dourthe by itself or with simple shellfish dishes, and save the Grand Village for heartier fishy fare.