Albanta Albariño 2013, Rías Baixas, Spain (£12 Asda)
Showing the exotic side of Albariño, this has a rich, almost Viognier-like nut kernel character plus notes of peach, passionfruit and lychee, but just when it was in danger of going a bit wobbly, a stony citrus side chips in to provide some restraint. S-

Torre de Ermelo Albariño 2013, Rías Baixas, Spain (£12 Asda)
Sleeker than the Albanta, there’s still a touch of nuttiness, but this majors on svelte nectarine and ripe citrus fruit, with stony minerality coming through on the finish. S(-)

Marimar Estate Don Miguel Vineyard Albariño 2012, Russian River Valley, California (£27.89 vintagemarque.com)
Remarkably crisp and slender for a 14% alcohol white, this has classic citrus, peach and nut kernel flavours, and a floral note – hyacinth? – adding interest to the finish. Best white I’ve had from this estate for a long time. S