Why is Petit grander than Grand? Discuss…

There’s a well-known estate in Bordeaux called Château Petit Village. It’s in the hallowed appellation of Pomerol and is owned by the insurance group AXA. There’s a less well-known estate called Château Grand Village. Logic would dictate that if Petit Village cost un bras et une jambe, then you should have to pay at least a torso for Grand Village. But no. Grand Village is a humble Bordeaux, albeit one under the same ownership as an even more stellar Pomerol, Château Lafleur. Now I’m not going to say that the 2004 that is rapidly disappearing from my glass has much in common with its more exalted stablemate. Grand Village is all about young, refreshing gluggability – although the fact that the 2004 is still looking so young in its 5th year suggests that there’s a little more substance than you’d initially think. It has that fragrant, dusty blackcurrant leaf and tobacco edge of Cab Franc, with Merlot adding some supple roundness. At £10.99 (from armit, click on the image above to take you to their site), it’s not the stuff of the bargain basement stuff, but it is a very good advert for sensibly priced Bordeaux. Will the Grand Village white be as good? I’ll leave that for tomorrow.

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