Pasión de Bobal 2009, Utiel-Requeña (£11.99 Virgin Wines)
Reasonable fruit, juicy plum, cherry and dark berry just heading towards jammy, and with notes of chocolate and desiccated coconut, rounded, warm and spicy, but too simple. B-

Torres Celeste Crianza 2008, Ribera del Duero (£12.49 Ann et Vin, Auriol Wines, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Charles Steevenson Wines, Handford Wines, Nidderdale fine Wines, Penistone Court Wine Cellars, Soho Wines, The City Beveridge Co, www.vintagemarque.com)
Laid-back style, spicy vanilla mixed with earthy freshness and softness, and generous plush plummy fruit, caresses rather than assaults you, unlike many from the region. S-

Mas Oller Blau 2009, Emporda (£10.99 Virgin Wines)
Combines Rhône-like meatiness with the warmth and dustiness of Spain, rich and earthy, with gutsy spice notes to the gentle berry and damson flavours, honest and very tasty. S

Espiago 2009, Calatayud (£10.99 Virgin Wines)
Has the Spanish dustiness, and decent enough plummy blackberry and blackcurrant fruit, but I find it lacks soul – feels to have been assembled rather than just been left to ‘be’. B-

Don Diego Escolano Reserva 2007, Cariñena (£9.99 Virgin Wines)
Ripe and friendly, with dusty berry fruit and a lick of coconut and vanilla from oak ageing, but the finish is just a little dry for real class. B