2009 Beaujolais from Georges Duboeuf

The 2009 vintage in Beaujolais is being touted as the best in living memory. Hype? Well, this sextet from Georges Duboeuf, the region’s most famous producer, didn’t disappoint. It’s a little early for most of these to be in the shops, and that’s no bad thing, as they’re all wines that will improve with a few more months (and sometimes considerably more) in bottle. The UK importer is Berkmann Wine Cellars.

Château des Vierres Beaujolais-Villages (£8.99 in various independents)
Confident, crunchy stuff, with refreshing plummy raspberry fruit tinged with touches of earth and spice, gluggable chillable friendly red wine. B

Juliénas Flower Label (~£9-£10)
More power & intensity here but there’s also a violet-like fragrance, and more depth of plum & strawberry flavour. Finish is quite voluptuous, but still juicy and refreshing. S-

Chiroubles Flower Label (current vintage 2008 £8.99 Waitrose)
Not quite as fragrant as the Juliénas, with the fruit having more of an earthy forest-floor-feel – blackcurrants brambles, cherries and wimberries. B(+)

Fleurie Flower Label (current vintage 2008 £8.29-£10.99 Sainsbury’s, Morrisons, Majestic, Wine Rack)
Quite full-bodied and powerful but still packed with vibrant, earthy raspberry, blackcurrant and cherry flesh, with violet and mineral notes on the finish. S-

Brouilly Flower Label (current vintage 2008 £7.99 Sainsbury’s)
More backward and less fragrant than the Fleurie, with more of an iron-tinged mineral edge, cherries and berries emerge over time, quite structured and solid but still refreshing. S-

Brouilly Château de Nervers (current vintage 2007 £8.95 The Wine Society)
Even more backward, but delve deep and there’s notes of truffley undergrowth, violets, dark forest fruit, and that iron-rich minerality. Still a pup, with the potential to improve for two more years, and age for another five beyond that. S

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