The Australian wine industry is determined to communicate the message of regionality. And as anyone who has ever tasted widely will tell you, there’s a big difference between Shirazes from, say, the Hunter Valley, McLaren Vale and Beechworth. If you want proof, look at the Brokenwood portfolio. The winery is based in the Hunter Valley but long-time winemaker and general manager Iain Riggs makes top classes Shirazes from, er, Hunter Valley, McLaren Vale and Beechworth. So which is his top wine….?